North Buttress Rock Climbing
|GPS:||37.863, -119.4 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Vlada Matena on Aug 17, 2015|
|Admins:||M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Cathedral Peak is a classic glacial horn with ridges that extend westward (Eichorn Pinnacle) and northward from the summit. The north-trending ridge branches into two parallel ridges, forming a U-shaped cirque that opens up toward Fairview Dome. The eastern and longer of the two ridges is the North Buttress.
The new climbs are located on the west and north sides of this buttress, near its toe. The toe of the North Buttress is only 150 feet from the highly-trafficked John Muir Trail. The North Buttress has several new routes of bolted face and trad climbing no harder than 5.7. It is also possible to top-rope more climbs up to 5.9 from the routes' belay anchors. Additional routes are currently in project state (a route is in a project state until all ¼ inch bolts placed on the lead have been replaced with permanent 3/8 inch bolts and all rappel anchors include a pair of 3/8 inch bolts with rappel rings).
The beta for some of the older routes (Muscle Fat and Beer Gut) on the buttress has become available here by the climbers who climbed these routes in the past. The current state of the belay/rappel anchors on these routes is unknown.
Classic Climbing Routes at North Buttress
Days w Precip