The Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak is justifiably one of the most well-known and popular climbs in Tuolumne Meadows. Its lesser known sibling, the North Buttress, which was climbed decades ago as evidenced by the remnants of old gear, has languished as little more than a photo-op for hikers on the John Muir Trail. This is finally changing as a result of new route activity started in 2014.
Cathedral Peak is a classic glacial horn with ridges that extend westward (Eichorn Pinnacle) and northward from the summit. The north-trending ridge branches into two parallel ridges, forming a U-shaped cirque that opens up toward Fairview Dome. The eastern and longer of the two ridges is the North Buttress.
The new climbs are located on the west and north sides of this buttress, near its toe. The toe of the North Buttress is only 150 feet from the highly-trafficked John Muir Trail.
The beta for some of the older routes (Muscle Fat and Beer Gut) on the buttress has become available here by the climbers who climbed these routes in the past. The current state of the belay/rappel anchors on these routes is unknown.
Tony Lewis
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[Hide Comment] "a route is in a project state until all ΒΌ inch bolts placed on the lead have been replaced with permanent 3/8 inch bolts and all rappel anchors include a pair of 3/8 inch bolts with rappel rings". Man, there's a lot of "projects" out there both old and new......and I've got a lot of work to do(:
Oct 15, 2021
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