Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

North Buttress

California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range > Cathedral Peak
Warning Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsDrop down

Description

The Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak is justifiably one of the most well-known and popular climbs in Tuolumne Meadows. Its lesser known sibling, the North Buttress, which was climbed decades ago as evidenced by the remnants of old gear, has languished as little more than a photo-op for hikers on the John Muir Trail. This is finally changing as a result of new route activity started in 2014.

Cathedral Peak is a classic glacial horn with ridges that extend westward (Eichorn Pinnacle) and northward from the summit. The north-trending ridge branches into two parallel ridges, forming a U-shaped cirque that opens up toward Fairview Dome. The eastern and longer of the two ridges is the North Buttress.

The new climbs are located on the west and north sides of this buttress, near its toe. The toe of the North Buttress is only 150 feet from the highly-trafficked John Muir Trail. 

The beta for some of the older routes (Muscle Fat and Beer Gut) on the buttress has become available here by the climbers who climbed these routes in the past. The current state of the belay/rappel anchors on these routes is unknown.

Getting There

Follow the John Muir Trail (aka Cathedral Lakes Trail) for 1.3 miles (40 - 50 minutes). The toe of the Buttress is 150 feet from the John Muir Trail (JMT).

GPS: Closest Point of JMT to the Toe of the Buttress: N37.86292 W119.40036

GPS: Toe of the North Buttress: N37.86267 W119.39994

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Double Down
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
Pedestal Center
TR, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Small Arch Left Side
TR, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 7
Metal Pecker
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 7
Family Flake
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 5
Muscle Fat
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 7
Beer Gut
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 9
Hops'n'Barley
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 34
Grand Central
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 7
Garden Party
Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 3
Party of Two
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 5
STD
Trad, Alpine
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 7
Slab Time
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 5
Slab Time Crack
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Down
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Pedestal Center
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR, Alpine
Small Arch Left Side
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR, Alpine
Metal Pecker
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Family Flake
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Muscle Fat
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Beer Gut
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Hops'n'Barley
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Grand Central
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Garden Party
 7
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
Party of Two
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
STD
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine
Slab Time
 7
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine
Slab Time Crack
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, Alpine

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes Topos
[Hide Photo] Routes Topos
Routes on North Buttress viewed from Fairview Dome
[Hide Photo] Routes on North Buttress viewed from Fairview Dome

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] "a route is in a project state until all ΒΌ inch bolts placed on the lead have been replaced with permanent 3/8 inch bolts and all rappel anchors include a pair of 3/8 inch bolts with rappel rings". Man, there's a lot of "projects" out there both old and new......and I've got a lot of work to do(: Oct 15, 2021