Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,417 total · 70/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


147 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This classic splitter finger crack is a must do if you're up to the challenge. The route starts by climbing about 10' of overhanging jugs and then its fingers the rest of the way. The lower portion of the crack is not too bad with good feet here and there to a good rest. From the rest place a couple pieces as high as you can and fight through the crux to the chains.

Location

This route is located about 100' right of "King Cat", just look for the obvious chalked up splitter.

Protection

One yellow alien at the start and the rest is .5 Camalots and or red aliens.
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This is another one to jump on if you have big fingers. For me this is THE dream finger crack, and one of the funnest routes I've ever done. Probably 10+ or 11- if you get locks all the way to the anchors. Jan 31, 2007
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
... if your fingers ARE the right size. If not, then this route epitomizes frustration, for the crux has no feet whatsoever and it's well nigh impossible to lie-back the crack. Or maybe I'm just being pessimistic. I did, however, lose a lot of skin on this line, so you'll pardon my attitude.

Next time... Apr 11, 2007
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
yeah, for smaller-fingered folks, this is one of the toughest sizes to master. For me, the crux of this climb is much harder and less secure than many .12s such as Swedin Ringle or even Slice'n'Dice. Sep 19, 2007
TBlom  
managed to hangdog and leapfrog cams while doing the moves on this one. the jams were tight as hell for me! Definitely fun for the large handed. Oct 14, 2007
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Wished I had a couple of stoppers for the lower bands leading to the crack. A fall from the rounded smooth holds would be ugly as I nearly found out. My fingers were a tad too small for the final 10 feet to the anchors but cams make good hand holds. Mar 28, 2010
Aeon Aki    
 
+1 to 1Eric Rhicard. Sounds like we both used the same beta. Nov 28, 2011
pete cutler
Des Moines, IA
 
pete cutler   Des Moines, IA
 
Anybody know the deal with the second pitch? That roof looks kick ass, how hard it is? what gear is needed? Oct 10, 2016
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11+
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11+
mountainproject.com/v/tasma…

The extension is called Tasmania, 12+ Oct 12, 2016