Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 2,457 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Mar 18, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is just right of The Mousetrap and to the left of Cat Walk. It's listed as route #7 in Bloom's guidebook. It has great movement and lots of variability, but it was hard giving this route more than two stars on a wall loaded with classics even by the Creek's standards.

Start in a thin corner to gain a ledge. From here pull a few chimney moves and climb a straight-in thin hands splitter to some anchors.

Protection

I used microcamalots for the start and for the chimney, up to a .5 camalot, the upper splitter takes several #1 camalots and a few #2 camalots.

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10
Route name is "Cat Got Your Tongue", F.A. Jay Smith. Oct 23, 2013
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.10
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.10
Despite being mostly tight hands (perfect red camalots), the difficulty is eased both by the slabby angle and the huge amount of face holds to stand on and rest.
Yet another example of "would be 5 stars anywhere else", this route suffers from too many quality rests and its short length.
Our rack was: 1 each from purple master cam to green camalot, 3-4 red camalots, 2-3 yellow camalots. The chimney takes finger gear in the back, so no big gear is needed. Nov 29, 2015
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10
Small cams helpful at the start. Nov 24, 2018