Type: Trad
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 19,739 total · 94/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Oct 6, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


155 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

An awesome route, with a little bit of everything, located right above the approach trail at Cat Wall. Starts off thin and goes through all the sizes to fists in a LF corner (10 feet of good hands for everybody) to a tenuous stemming stance. Now crank a wild layback (tcu protected) to a "rest", before pulling the even more wild off-hands, body-length roof. Many have on-sighted up to the very last awkward mantle into a bottomless wide crack by the anchors, only to be spit off by the bizarre sequence. If you're tall enough you can clip the anchors before doing this move. A 50 meter rope works.

Protection

Bring one each blue and yellow tcus, two orange, two red, one #2 friend, two 2.5 friends, two-three #3 friends, and 4-5 3.5 friends (3 camalots work a bit better at the roof)
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
I'm one of the ones who got spit off by the last move. I eventually got it by a very interesting sequence. REALLY fun route, but REALLY hard for people with tiny hands like me (Red Camalot-sized hands). You can get pumped just getting there if you are not careful! Feb 28, 2002
Once you reach the lip of the roof,turn a layback to reach the chains. A little awkward, but it may be the easiest way to the anchor. Nov 25, 2003
Max Schon
  5.11d
Max Schon  
  5.11d
Thankfully, you cannot clip the anchor before pulling the roof. Apr 22, 2004
Jesse Ryan
  5.11d
Jesse Ryan  
  5.11d
Absolutely stellar. Just smaller than fists or super super insecure cups for me at the top of the corner = placing #3 Camalot from layback. Roof Mantle = power. Jan 16, 2006
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
 
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
 
great route, and the crux can be done several ways. If you haven't been on it, definitely get on this one. I used a little bit of everything from .3 camalot at the start through #3 camalot in the roof Mar 18, 2006
T.G. gave this one away. 5.11d Mar 28, 2006
misterclimberman
  5.11+
misterclimberman  
  5.11+
freaking phenomenal. best route ive done in the creek. super insecure, hard route. im glad i got on this before i read the beta, im glad i had to figure out the roof's lip beta for myself. BURLY! super hard for those of us whose perfect hand jam is just under a #2 camalot. but its still too small to get fists. really cool. get on it. and if tuffgong reads this anytime soon, you should really contemplate getting rid of the beta, its much more fun to figure out on your own. Apr 17, 2006
I agree, might be the best route I've done in The Creek. Re: beta. I cannot imagine anyone getting to the lip on o/s and not figuring out how to get established above the roof. (Maybe because I am a sportclimber at heart?) Dec 13, 2007
In 2003, my boy RVA from Crested Butte hung off of the last hand jam before the jug at the lip (the one with the little riblet), with both feet cut loose, pulled a beer from an auxilary chalkbag, swilled the thing, and then finished the route. Sick. Mar 4, 2008
Bart Paull
Golden, CO
Bart Paull   Golden, CO
"Turning a heinously awkward lieback" is not the best way to finish this route ... Apr 28, 2008
Kurt Ross
  5.11d
Kurt Ross  
  5.11d
Incredible pitch! If you clip the chains from the jug with draws extending them, you are doing a different route. It's full value if you pull the lip. Oct 17, 2011
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
11+, plus some Nov 4, 2011
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
All those shoe rubber skid marks right at the lip of the roof give you an idea of how much a heartbreaker this thing is... Sep 27, 2016
grog m
 
grog m  
 
This rig is hard! All doable but that last move....heartbreaker! Also note that cleaning this on lower/rappel is a pain, it would be much better to have a second go up and clean. Nov 20, 2017