Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Matt Lisenby & Michael Barnthouse
Page Views: 949 total · 8/month
Shared By: Matt Lisenby on Sep 12, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The doghouse is an 80 foot extention of 'unnamed # 29" in Bloom's 1st, "unnamed #36" in 2nd edition guidebook. It starts with a widening fingercrack in an awkward closed dihedral then goes to a wide slot and then a hand crack which lands you at the optional original anchors(5.11) Launch into fingers and tips overlaps with a couple of changing dihedrals moves
(crux) to gain the thin upper dihedral. Fun and tenuous stemming with great nut placements lands you in the final widening handcrack to the upper anchors. A third pitch could be added . . .

Location

Maybe 20 yards right of alley cat. The upper headwall crack and dihedral is easily identified.

Protection

A double set of cams through #4 will get you to the first anchors. From the first anchors, a double set of TCU's through big fingers, a set of wires, and a single set of cams through fist will probably be enough. Some long runners (as well as draws for the nuts) will help avoid rope drag through the roofs.

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