Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Marc Sheppard, Clint Cummins, 1990. FFA: Eric Decaria
Page Views: 6,056 total · 44/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 4, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A route that has had a different name and a higher grade (now shorter crux reach due to the hold breaking a while ago).

If you like cranker 3/4" to thinner size locks with minimal solid feet then you'll dig this line!

A #1 Camalot with a QD works well under the roof. What follows next is a sweet and painful section of sustained second digit locks and small Calcite edges capped off with a big reach to a flexy horizontal flake and a quick first digi move to the anchor (used to be a triangle of webbing which saw many desperate lunges for). (12b)

Protection

#1 Camalot, (4-5).75, (1).5, (1).4 (optional) inch size cams
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
  5.12
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
  5.12
Although it wasn't a redpoint for her on this occasion, it was perhaps one of my most memorable experiences of pain tolerances...Belaying Heidi Wirtz while she was wearing floppy Mythos and the shoes just weren't working for her, so...After falling near halfway, she ripped the sloppy boats off, threw them down and fired the rest of the route...Barefoot!!

OUCH!!!!! Sep 8, 2007
Bryan Gilmore
FLG, AZ
 
Bryan Gilmore   FLG, AZ
 
FA: Eric Decaria Oct 28, 2008
Clint Cummins
Palo Alto, CA
Clint Cummins   Palo Alto, CA
trivia:
FFA: Eric Decaria

FA(w/ aid): Marc Sheppard, Clint Cummins, 1990.
We placed the anchor bolts, but were unable to free it even on toprope. Mar 23, 2009
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12
My rack recommendation would be (3) .3 Camalots and (4) .4 Camalots. A green alien works well at the crux. Nov 20, 2012
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Thanks for a good laugh, guys. :) Oct 11, 2018
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Alex's gear rec is spot on! Oct 11, 2018
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
The anchors were replaced by Jordan Hirro with 1/2" 4 3/4" SS 5-pieces on Monday. Oct 18, 2018