Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 795 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ivan Cross on Nov 12, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Description Suggest change

This is a 3 pitch route, but I'm recommending rapping from the top of pitch 2. I investigated the 3rd pitch, but downclimbed to the anchor because of a dangerous flake and sugary rock.

Pitch one: A steep left facing corner with good handjams to low angle rock. Traverse left on slab to an easy wide crack. Up and then traverse right on rubble strewn ledge. Then up to the belay on top of the pillar ( I used 2 #2 camelots for the anchor).

Pitch two: up the left facing corner that starts as hands, then turns into more of a flake with big hands and fists. At the point that some flakes intersect the crack, switch to the left crack (fingers through hands with face holds) This is a wild pitch with a tower feel.

Location Suggest change

This route is right of the Johnny Cat area, before you go around the corner to Pit Bull Terror. Very obvious line.

Protection Suggest change

I would bring for a rack singles .4, .5 camelot, triples .75, 1 camelot, quatruples 2, 3 camelot (2 of the 2's are the pitch 1 anchor) doubles 4 camelot. Also I placed 2 or 3 stoppers. Runners, obviously.

I use old style wild country pieces mixed in with my bd's. This is my best estimate for a climber with a modern rack. Bring extra if you want to.

2 60m ropes get you back to the ground from the top of pitch 2