Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 116 total · 7/month
Shared By: tradderall ***** on Nov 12, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a 3 pitch route, but I'm recommending rapping from the top of pitch 2. I investigated the 3rd pitch, but downclimbed to the anchor because of a dangerous flake and sugary rock.

Pitch one: A steep left facing corner with good handjams to low angle rock. Traverse left on slab to an easy wide crack. Up and then traverse right on rubble strewn ledge. Then up to the belay on top of the pillar ( I used 2 #2 camelots for the anchor).

Pitch two: up the left facing corner that starts as hands, then turns into more of a flake with big hands and fists. At the point that some flakes intersect the crack, switch to the left crack (fingers through hands with face holds) This is a wild pitch with a tower feel.

Location

This route is right of the Johnny Cat area, before you go around the corner to Pit Bull Terror. Very obvious line.

Protection

I would bring for a rack singles .4, .5 camelot, triples .75, 1 camelot, quatruples 2, 3 camelot (2 of the 2's are the pitch 1 anchor) doubles 4 camelot. Also I placed 2 or 3 stoppers. Runners, obviously.

I use old style wild country pieces mixed in with my bd's. This is my best estimate for a climber with a modern rack. Bring extra if you want to.

2 60m ropes get you back to the ground from the top of pitch 2

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