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Routes in Cat Wall

100th Monkey T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
9 Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Abbienormal (aka Red Neck Rock Warrior) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Acme Plaque Me T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Alley Cat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bachelor Party T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bad Cat T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Burl Dog T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cat Box T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat Burglar T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cat Got Your Tongue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat Nap T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cat Scan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cat Woman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cat in the Hat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cat's Cradle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cat's Paw T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Catastroph T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Catastrophe T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Caterpillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cathedral of the Mad Feline T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cathouse, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Catskills T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Catsup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cattle Call T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Choke Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Curiosity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dead Crow T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Deseret Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Doggie Go T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Doghouse, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fat Cat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Felix T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flatulent Cat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Berlin T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Furr Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hairbald T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Holy Catrimony T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Incredible Butt Crack, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Johnny Cat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
King Cat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
King of Beasts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Kitten, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitty Litter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kool Cat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kung Pao Cat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Line King, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lioness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Look What Zog Do T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Love Cats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lynx T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Maceo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mad Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Meow Mix T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
More Than One Way T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mousetrap T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Take On The Flake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pinky Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pit Bull Terror T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Puddy Tat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puma T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pussy Cat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pussy Galore T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pussy Whipped T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sabertooth T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stokat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Super Cat of the Desert T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sylvester T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tasmania T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tender Vittles T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
To Be Deleted (Unnamed 19) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Skin a Cat T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tom Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trip to the Vet T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 67 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 47 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 11+ (right of Maceo) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed 19 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 -Route 60 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10: Route 41 ( 46 in 2nd edition of Bloom) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.11 ( 36 in 2nd Addition) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wild Cat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Jonny Woodward and Scott Carson, 1992
Page Views: 2,565 total, 24/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Mar 18, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Super Cat is one of the best climbs I've done at Indian Creek. Like Desert Shield and Pistol Whipped, it is both magnificent and fully deserving of the glorious grade of Indian Creek 5.12. Awesome!

Begin with a reachy/bouldery move up the bedding rock well left of the obvious crack line. Arrange some thin pro, reach right and clip a bolt (looks good despite the old hanger) and perform some fun face moves up to the obvious horizontal. Plug in a #4 Camalot here and hand traverse right for 15 feet before stepping up to a huge, hollow flake. Ascend this with bear hugs or by jamming the left side (pro here seems better, but I didn't want to fall). The top of the flake is a good rest and you can finally reach right and place bomber pro in the start of the actual crack system. Even though you've just done 50' of climbing, things really begin here.

Climb splitter tight hands up gently overhanging rock to a pod rest below the roof. Pull this with difficulty and then punch it up the 50' headwall splitter. This section narrows from tight hands to perfect fingers, and is sometimes slightly offset.

Here's the heavy-handed beta: I climbed this with a single 70m cord but employed some shenanigans to make it all come together. First, I tied into both ends of the cord and climbed the first stretch up to the top of the hollow flake (only clipping one end of the rope). From here I reached over to the crack proper and placed three pieces (a mini-anchor of sorts) and clipped the other end of the rope to these, and untied from the first end and dropped it to the ground (making sure to completely undo the knot so it could slide through all the gear). Meanwhile, my partner switched the belay from the first side to the new active side of the rope. From here I climbed to the chains and was able to lower back down to the ledge at the base of the climb after unclipping all the gear on the way down. A 69m rope or less would not have reached, nor would the 70 if I had left it clipped through any of the gear. This was a good way to do the route with a single rope and, more importantly, minimize drag on the upper two-thirds of the climb.

Protection

The meat of the climb takes #1 Camalots (6 or 7 should be OK), but a bunch of 0.4's, 0.5's, and 0.75's are important too. A #2 Camalot protects the move off the ground (a #2 can also be placed in the hollow flake and also just above the cave/roof). Black and blue Aliens are good for getting to the bolt, and a #4 C4 was key for the horizontal break, but a #3 might fit too. A FULL 70m cord is essential and two ropes are probably better.

Photos

Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I see what you are saying Chris, Brad and Scott.

This is not the cleanest line on a wall full of clean splitters. There was some adventurousness (can't think of a better adjective) to this route which perhaps elevated my perception of its quality. Often times on the more splitter cracks I can look up and envision how I plan on climbing it and am often right (at least up to mid 5.12). I really had no idea what to expect on this thing from the chossy bottom to the awkward roof to the splitter up high which really didn't climb like your typical splitter and is a bit sandy and brittle. The splitter after the flake was, well splitter and the one part of the route that was readable from below. This route had somewhat of a "tower" feel to me in its variety, commitment and imperfection.

Not exactly sure what I'm saying. I guess this really is not a 4-star route on Cat Wall. I did have a 4-star experience on it though. Sep 3, 2011
Scott Bennett
  5.12-
Scott Bennett  
  5.12-
I'm inclined to agree with Brad, the choss on this route make it hard to earn true classic status on a wall stacked with gorgeous splitters. Worth doing, but don't fall before you get to the splitter. Nov 28, 2009
Brad Gobright
1994 Honda Civic
 
Brad Gobright   1994 Honda Civic
 
Theres only about twenty feet of good crack climbing on this thing IMO Nov 25, 2009
Yeah, am I the only guy that is scared of the pillar? Most people just blow me off when I say that its not worth laybacking up that death nugget. I fully expect it to be gone one spring in my lifetime. Did it once, never again. The upper part is a splitter, sure, but you know what, I know where I can find some other splitters to do. Nov 11, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Great description Josh!

I used your rope beta and it worked great.

I'm not really sure what is holding that hollow flake on the wall. If a climber pulled it off it could be ugly!

Despite the issues in the first 50-feet, this is still one of the best climbs on the Cat Wall. Oct 14, 2009