Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m)
FA: Josh Smith, Sam Gardner
Page Views: 2,376 total · 12/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on May 14, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route was put up by Josh Smith and Sam Gardner in Spring 2007. It's worth the extra hike from 9 Lives, particularly if it's hot. This route will see shade most of the day. It's not a mega classic, but extremely fun. There is a pillar at the base of the route. We climbed the left hand side. It's fingers and a couple of hand pods for the first 40 feet. The bottom is a bit sandy and soft, but the rest of the route is quite solid. The pillar ends in a good stance. Five or seven feet of offwidth takes you to the thin hands section. A #4 might be useful. The remainder of the pitch crack is quite wavy, varying from .75 to #2 Camalots. The waves make it reasonable, but it's got quite a lot of solid 11- on it.

We'd love to hear about a second ascent and if others liked it as much as we did!

Location Suggest change

This route is midway between the Cat Wall and Broken Tooth, but it's a bit closer to the Cat Wall. Go well past 9 Lives until the wall begins to bend towards Broken Tooth. Look for the tall, clean dihedral. There's a plaque at the bottom. The hike from either Broken Tooth (the climb) or Nine Lives might take ten minutes.

Protection Suggest change

Fingers to hands with an emphasis on .75 to #1 Camalots. It's 180 feet, so gear accordingly. The anchor is 2 3/8" bolts.

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