Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 10,251 total · 50/month
Shared By: Mike Sokoloff on Apr 3, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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116 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is one of my favorites. Starts out good hands and slowly narrows to thin hands and eventually fingerstacks, which is the crux. It then pulls a cool traverse to a rest and finishes on a #3 Camalot sized crack through a roof. This route is found on the leftmost prow of Cat Wall. Don't miss it!

Protection

Heavy on hands, thin hands, and wide fingers sizes. A few smaller pieces but nothing micro or bigger than a #3 Camalot.
this might just be the best 12a pitch on thr planet - it's long and has everything from fingers to fists to face climbing. Huck the gnar! Sep 7, 2004
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.11c
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
  5.11c
(warning: more grade wankery at the creek)
This is one of the all time best routes I've done at the Creek. I've got to say that, unless blue camalots are perfect hands for you, there is no way that this is .12a. Even the .11+ rating in Bloom's guide seems pretty generous. Oct 28, 2006
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
I didn't realize there were grades at the creek? Apr 23, 2007
This is most definitely not 5.12 or 5.11+ for that matter. Its just good and pumpy, I would rate it a solid 5.11. Nov 5, 2007
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11
harder for us big handed folk. great route, definately one of my favorites at the creek Apr 21, 2008
Soooo good. Solid 11. You will be smiling ear to ear when you finish this pitch. Nov 30, 2009
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.11b/c
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.11b/c
This is a far cry from 5.12!! I think 5.11b/c is good.. There is not one single hard move on it, and when it gets thin before the ledge, you get 2 bomber jams to rest and place (if you want) from.

Best route in the creek!!
70m works Nov 15, 2010
slim

  5.11b/c
slim    
  5.11b/c
this is a good route, but there are 2 things that detract from it being on my 5 star mega route list - length (my 5 star rating requires 150 feet), and the bivy ledge near the top (no rest for the wicked). but this still isn't enough detraction for me to gladly give it 4 stars on MP. a really fun route. Nov 17, 2010
AL .
UT
  5.11+
AL .   UT
  5.11+
Even with my meaty mitts this thing barely get's 11+, you'd have to have some monster hands for this to come anywhere close to 12-. The thin hands is basically steep tight #2's or big #1's. Either cam works but the #1 is more likely to be removed easily. One of my new favorites at the Creek! A real gem. Oct 30, 2015
Z Winters
Mazama, WA
Z Winters   Mazama, WA
Despite the new book calling for an 80m rope, a 70 works no problem.
Only one #3 and a few finger pieces. The rest is green, red and yellow camalots. The crux is similar to Rock Lobster, but without the rest right before. Stellar climb. Nov 30, 2018