Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kim & Matt Lisenby - circa 2005.
Page Views: 1,056 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 9, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Kung Pao Cat is yet another great new route in the "new wave" style. Begin a ways left of Curiosity and right of Kool Cat below an obvious arête with two bolts. A difficult 5.11 move leads to the first clip and then cruxy climbing past a second clip culminates with a jug and a fixed wire in suspect rock. Above this is scary, committing climbing up a hollow flake with small, sketchy gear, but the situation improves rapidly. A good rest on a ledge is followed by a nicely varnished offset #1 Camalot crack with a final fun move to the chains. Great route but kinda scary.

Protection

Tiny to #2 Camalot.

Photos

- No Photos -
FA: Kim & Matt Lisenby in about 2005. Location: between Tender Vittles and the Line King. Glad this route is posted up, I couldn't recall what we named it. Does anyone have a good photo of this one? I recall using a large cam in a horizontal to make the opening move safer. If you like this route, you'll probably like "my little friend" at scarface and "the Doghouse" on the cat wall - both are more technical than your average IC crack. Apr 21, 2010
Moritz B.  
 
Pulled the fixed nut out while on TR. Was highly suspect. Dec 1, 2014
Josh Janes

  5.12b
Josh Janes    
  5.12b
It may have held a lead fall, it may not have. Or, it may have held body weight or it may not have. I think it's a bummer to make the call to pull it out while on TR. I can only assume that someone put the rope up for you - did that person clip the fixed wire? They may have thought it was suspect (as did I), but did they clip it? Personally, I was glad that wire was there even though I did not test it. Dec 1, 2014
Moritz B.  
 
Josh, my buddy Scott who led the pitch actually hung on the wire (bodyweight only). It held the bodyweight. When I TR´ed it, the nut just came out once I touched the draw attached to it. I didn´t rip it out yet I also didn´t put it back in place, which would have been bad style in my opinion. Whoever is planning on repeating the route might consider bringing slider nuts for the spot where the nut was. Dec 8, 2014