Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,513 total · 13/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 31, 2002 with updates from Matt Zia
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


The plaque at the base identifies this route, it is approximately 50 yards to the right of where the west trail meets the wall. A loose (welcome to the desert) bouldery start gets your attention before standing on a ledge that will put you into a nice thin hands crack. The crack slowly opens up to hands, and toward the top where it gets to that bigger than hands, smaller than fists size, some face holds appear to save the day. This was a fun route, though I think the bouldery start scare people. A puppy crawl in from the side can side step the looseness. Again, it's great route.


A wide array of protection ranging from #1 to #3.5 Camalot exist. It seems about 5 of the #1s is the max you will need of any given piece, with only 2 of the #3.5. A small TCU can protect the boulder problem start, but it would likely blow out if anyone bigger than Tom Thumb whipped on it.


Max Schon
Max Schon  
Best warm up at the Cat Wall.

My friend fell on a blue alien protecting the face move off the ground. Conclusion: it's solid and will hold 160 pounder. Nov 11, 2003
For folks with big hands, the short stretch of crack that leans left about half way up the route will be the crux. The crack necks back down to a #2 Friend after being Red Camalots for a while. If #3 Friends are good hands for you, this route will feel harder than 5.10.

The crux is short though, with a decent rest after it. Mar 9, 2005
Jeff G.
Jeff G.   Lyons
This is a very good pitch with nice variation from thin hands to big hands,a great warm-up. Nov 13, 2006
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
fyi, in october this thing was waaaay sandy, great line but no fun slipping out of jams with a pound of sand in your face. meh... Oct 19, 2008
Augsburg, Germany
HeatherB-Radley   Augsburg, Germany
i LOVED this route!! but, for female or small hands be prepared for the crux to be much higher up. For this hand size the route starts with a super-sweet but slightly insecure bouldery/balancy start then you'll find the crack that started perfect hands, then cupped, then fists and slightly bigger (I think at a couple points i threw in a forearm) for me which made it a way different climb for me than the fellas i was with :)

enjoy, very fun! Dec 2, 2009
moab, ut
  5.10+ PG13
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
  5.10+ PG13
to avoid scary ground fall on the way down from catsup i traversed the ledge and placed a piece high to get started on the weird bouldery start Jan 25, 2010
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
Great climb! Definitely 10+ for the tricky moves off the deck. Maybe 10+ for big hands up in the tight section of the crack too. I felt comfortable and safe with a green #0 C3 protecting the opening moves; good rock and a nice constriction to keep it in there. Jan 11, 2012
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Beta Spoiler! To add to the beta: a purple or gray Metolious will protect the bottom moves, or a small nut. A blue Metolious higher gives more comfort. That said, an 80' stick clip should allow you to clip the first bolt. . . Jan 16, 2018