Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Stevenson?
Page Views: 188 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Feb 1, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

This is a super fun route!
Start on the corner of the pillar in the notch between the wall and pillar. A little unprotected boulder problem puts you at a horizontal crack, which you hand traverse right (easier if you are not short) Traverse to a vertical crack and climb up to a small ledge. Two bolts lead to the summit.
The anchor on top is a slung block.

Location

This pillar is on the far right side of Cat Wall.

Protection

I think I placed something like:
1x #.3, 2x #.4, 2x #.5, 1x #.75, 2x #2, 1x #3 camalot.
Runners, 2 quickdraws, 60m rope.

Photos

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Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11- R
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11- R
Did this route about 2 months ago. Thought it was mildly terrifying, with crap gear and chossy rock. The bolts are good, but much of the gear in the first half is not trustworthy. There used to be a fixed angle piton protecting the hand traverse... my partner removed it with his fingers (accidentally, and just prior to resting on it!). Neat line, fun moves, nice feature, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Feb 2, 2011
Ben Kiessel
  5.11
Ben Kiessel  
  5.11
I would be interested to hear other peoples thoughts on this route because I lead it twice and thought it was an awesome route with good gear. Feb 13, 2011
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11- R
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11- R
Wow, are Ben and I not talking about the same route? The way we did it, the cracks were pouring sand, large blocks were hollow and shifting, and edges were breaking off constantly. Maybe I'll amend my judgement to: "Potentially fun climb, but climber beware! It's not a clean and sterilized typical Creek splitter." Feb 14, 2011