Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,866 total · 40/month
Shared By: Rob Kepley on Oct 15, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This amazing climb has everything! Endurance laybacks, great hands, squeeze chimney to a fist crack finish.

Start in a perfect left facing corner which goes to great hands soon after. After a good rest stance, execute the bulge which eats #2 Camalots. Continue up to a tight flared chimney utilizing a series of good edges out left. Finish with a fist crack to the anchor.

Make sure to save at least one #3 Camalot for the finish.

Location

Cat Wall, immediately left of "King Cat".

Protection

Camalots: 2-.75, 2-#1, 4-#2, 4-#3 or 3.5

Photos

Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11
This pitch is incredible! One of the best pitches I have done at the creek. I loved getting into the flare, wild and overhanging, but with a perfect #2 Camalot crack size. Getting out of the flare was the Mr. Hyde version of getting into it, with a tight 3.5 Camalot size to big #3 Camalots for full pump factor. Nov 13, 2006
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
  5.11c
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
  5.11c
Ditto on the superlatives. A sweet crack that doesn't get done too often. It'll test all your 5.11 crack skills. Don't trust the book's gear suggestion. Starts with #1.5 friend layback that gradually opens to hands. A very physical and overhanging section on perfect hands leads to a tricky move getting into the flare, which takes #3.5 friends in the back. I'd recommend at least 4-5 of this size. I'd also recommend at least (3) #4 friends (old 3.5 camalots). Mar 5, 2008
Patrick Pharo
Boulder, CO
Patrick Pharo   Boulder, CO
Josh,
Come on man, that Bloom guidebook is the Bible for gear beta. I've never been sandbagged by it. Well....maybe once. Jun 26, 2008
Sean
Oak Park, CA
 
Sean   Oak Park, CA
 
brought up two gray #4 C4's. one could get away with toting only up to #3's, but placements could be more reachy and awkward. the first #4 was helpful for the first 2/3 of the squeeze flake, allowing easier walking up of that instead of having to reach farther in to place #3's. helps too to have the second #4 to place early at the lip of the finishing roof. the squeeze section is actually quite favorable if one contorts well. that entire overhanging hands-to-squeeze-flare-to-fist-roof is just wild and crazy fantastic. get on it, get curious Oct 22, 2011
Princess Mia
Vail
 
Princess Mia   Vail
 
This is one of the best climbs at the creek….period.

All I can say is WOW!!!!!! Nov 16, 2013
I heard this climb used to live in Yosemite, but it got lost one day while wandering off and ended up here in Indian creek. Nov 21, 2013
Bowie Pearson
Portland, OR
  5.11+
Bowie Pearson   Portland, OR
  5.11+
I liked having three C4 #4's on this one. Easier to bump in the flare, and then again they fit well at the top (unlike what the description says above, I definitely wanted a #4 at the top, not a #3?). I took a bunch of #3's and maybe only placed 2 of them, but I do love that size. The lie-back at the start was hard for me - .5's then slowly gets bigger. Overall an amazing and varied climb, worth doing!!! I thought it was a bit harder than King Cat, but that's just me. Nov 30, 2015
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.11+
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.11+
Don't bring #4 camalots. Bring #4 Friends. Not quite fists up top for me...to small. Oct 31, 2016