Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 735 total · 5/month
Shared By: Zac Robinson on Nov 15, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Starts over a short blocky sequence. Up through a .75 camalot layback/undercling. Then into a chimney with a crack in deep for protection. After that some good, but awkward hands to a sloping ledge. From the ledge, place some gear, then face climb up and left over the arete. From this 'cave' head up and left through hands to fists to off-width. Can somewhat layback the last section.

It's got a bit of everything.

Location

Moving right along the cliff, it is past Kool Kat. About 30' or so before Lynx (Lynx is the next long obvious corner)

Protection

Anchor at the top. Bloom recommends (3)1.5, (1)2.5, (4)3.0, (4)3.5, and (2) #4 Camalots. I would take some more stuff in the 0.75-1.5 range to place earlier. (all sizes are for friends unless noted)

Photos

- No Photos -
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11-
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11-
A fall on the face climbing section could be bad as a swinging fall onto that sloping ledge would suck. Fun moves though. Nov 5, 2009
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11-
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11-
This route is a lot easier than it looks and the face climbing section is short with good edges. Save a #4 for the end. Mar 2, 2014
Fulford
  5.11- R
Fulford  
  5.11- R
Great, varied route requiring many techniques. However there are a couple of serious sections: one in the chimney where you have to climb ~10' above the #4 before you can get gear in solid rock again. And another with the very committing, unprotected face climbing where you could fall ~10' onto a ledge. I would only suggest this route to those confident running out 5.10 chimney and face. Also the sling at the anchor is looking a bit old and should be replaced. Apr 4, 2015