Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Steve "Roadie" Seats
Page Views: 957 total · 6/month
Shared By: Max Schon on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This esoteric route is just to the right of 9 Lives. It starts up some easy thin hands (10+) that go to a big ledge at the beginning of a dihedral. Clip the lone bolt and make the difficult dihedral move by pushing against the dihedral with your left hand (it feels like your left shoulder is going to dislocate) and using some very tenuous feet to reach the finger lock where the crack starts. Crank some thin hands until the crack widens and widens and widens, until you are able to get into the chimmney. Chimmney about 50 feet until you get to a massive chock stone that you can climb onto. Don't bother with any gear for the chimmney since its perfect heel/toe. Stem out to the anchors. Two ropes to rap.

Protection

Some of everything, but nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot. Perhaps some extra thin hands gear.

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
One 70m rope will get you down from the anchor. Oct 29, 2014
justino  
FA Steve "Roadie" Seats Oct 26, 2015