Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Steve "Roadie" Seats
Page Views: 1,747 total · 7/month
Shared By: Max Schon on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


7 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This esoteric route is just to the right of 9 Lives. It starts up some easy thin hands (10+) that go to a big ledge at the beginning of a dihedral. Clip the lone bolt and make the difficult dihedral move by pushing against the dihedral with your left hand (it feels like your left shoulder is going to dislocate) and using some very tenuous feet to reach the finger lock where the crack starts. Crank some thin hands until the crack widens and widens and widens, until you are able to get into the chimmney. Chimmney about 50 feet until you get to a massive chock stone that you can climb onto. Don't bother with any gear for the chimmney since its perfect heel/toe. Stem out to the anchors. Two ropes to rap.

Protection Suggest change

Some of everything, but nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot. Perhaps some extra thin hands gear.

Photos

loading