Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,124 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chris Dawson on Apr 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Here is another route where I'm not sure of the name. There is only one discernable route between Kool Cat and Tender Vittles on the Cat Wall and this is it. The book describes it as a 140ft. corner with mostly big hands. In actuality it's about 95 ft. and starts out as thin fingers liebacking to a facehold/stance followed by some pods and flares that are wide in places, but certainly not "mostly wide hands". I'm sure someone can tell what this is, or confirm a mistake in the guide. Anyway, this pitch is well worth doing, however, the anchor slings are in need of being replaced pretty badly. Might feel like .10+ at the start, which is sustained for 30 or 40 ft. A 60 meter will get you down fine.

Protection

.4/.5 in. for the start followed by several from 2-4 in. mostly hand sized.

Photos

Chris Dawson
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10
Chris Dawson   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10
The slings at the anchor have been replaced on 10.12.02 Oct 14, 2002
I'd say the start is definitely 5.11-, but most of the climb is 5.10. Nov 11, 2003
Kirk Woerner
  5.11a
Kirk Woerner  
  5.11a
This route is hard, especially for large fingers. I'd call it 5.11- (Compare it to Coyne Crack Simulator for example). It's 20 feet of hard thin finger laybacking before it eases up. May 3, 2004
Rob Dillon  
 
Two stars is generous for this one, considering the nearby competition on the best crag in the universe. May 13, 2004
This route has new anchors as of Nov 2006, courtesy of Climbing Magazines ARI program. Nov 17, 2006
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.10+
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.10+
Bottom Kicked my butt as a warm up. The rest was varied and fun. Mar 28, 2010
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
I don't know why people are bagging on this climb. It's pretty good in my mind. Thin fingers start followed by various sizes of a corner crack, including some wide pods. Definitely worth doing. I could understand if people called it 11- but 10+ is also quite reasonable since there are plenty of feet at the start. Oct 28, 2011
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
"The book describes it as a 140ft. corner with mostly big hands. In actuality it's about 95 ft. and starts out as thin fingers liebacking to a facehold/stance followed by some pods and flares that are wide in places, "


The more I try to use Blooms books, the more I realize how little he must have actually even looked at the crags. Nov 14, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
yea Dr Bloom,s book fucked the creek with disinformation .... Nov 14, 2013
Princess Mia
Vail
 
Princess Mia   Vail
 
Great route! But yeah the bottom totally spanked me…… I give the start 11- even for little hands……

And I ditto Devin's remark above!!! Nov 16, 2013
Will Sharp
Breck, CO
 
Will Sharp   Breck, CO
 
Not sure why the anchors are placed where they are. The ledge is covered in sand getting over to the anchor. Makes for a rope grinding toprope. Good route tho! Nov 24, 2018