Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 916 total · 5/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Oct 19, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This fun climb is located immediately to the left of Fat Cat and tackles a mostly thin hands to hand crack through some difficult pods. An intimidating, dirty roof guards the start. I give this route an "S" due to the roof moves which are protected by a small cam (blue alien) in suspect rock. The moves are no harder than 5.8/5.9 but a fall is not recommended.

After pulling the roof continue through the first pod (burly!) to a very thin hand crack with decent feet out left. A good rest comes before the next pod where, thankfully, the crack widens to perfect hands. The pod is burly but perseverence and determination will see you through.

Opinions will differ as to which pod is harder. I found the second pod to be harder as it is very difficult to place gear in the back.

Protection

A mix of cams from #0.5-#2 camalot. A #4 camalot works well in the low pod. A blue alien or purple TCU is key for protecting the dirty roof at the start

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Joe Collins
  5.11
Joe Collins  
  5.11
I also should add that a 60m rope will get you off the route fine. However, the anchor is a bit sketchy, so add some back-up gear (hand-size) if you TR. Oct 21, 2002
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.11
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.11
I don't feel this route warrants an R rating at all. Nov 28, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Definitely not R, but you do have to tread carefully on the lower choss band. Some great corner switches higher up with some tough sizes. Anchors are old but adequate. Could use some love. Apr 2, 2011
Monster Mary
Breckenridge, CO
 
Monster Mary   Breckenridge, CO
 
Anchor still looking for love. Oct 26, 2015