Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,626 total · 41/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


143 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Deseret Moon is a sweet, long splitter hand crack that is guarded by some interesting, difficult climbing off the ground. Approach by heading left along the wall for a good distance (300m?). Just past Tom Cat (a nice hand crack in a varnished corner) is this line.

The direct start is difficult 5.11 stemming up a stem box to a roof of sorts, protected by tiny cams and, formerly, a bolt (now just a hole). The indirect start heads up loose but easy cracks to the left and then traverses over to the ledge just above the direct start. From there you head up a finger crack and flake to a rest before embarking on the gorgeous perfect hands splitter to the anchors.

Two ropes to rap.

Protection

Single set of cams from small to #1 Camalot + several #2 Camalots. Either a #4 Camalot or a bunch of TCU's depending on the start you take.
This is called Desseret Moon. The direct start is 5.11+, nuts useful. The indirect start is not 5.11- R as stated in the guide... more like 5.8 loose. Dec 1, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
I'm not sure if this is where the name comes from, but my kids were playing "Where in the USA is Carmen, San Diego" and there was a question about Deseret and that being the original name proposed for the state of Utah. Is that the source of the name? Feb 27, 2006
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
 
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
 
The direct start is hard and solid at the 5.11+ grade. Take many small aliens if leading the direct start. The indirect start is easy and loose, and detracts from the quality rating. Mar 18, 2006
well the entire route is 5.11- from the other start, and the start is r rated. so as far as 5.11-r, that would be correct. the whole route is sure as hell not 5.8, so its not 5.8r. the more proper way of describing it, i suppose, would be to say that it is 5.11- with a 5.8r start. there ya go a.c. Apr 17, 2006
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
Deseret was the name of a short-lived attempted state that the Mormons established for a couple years circa 1849-50. Nov 19, 2006
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
The start felt .11b/c like to me but that was probably because I put in a ton of gear. I would have to agree with an .11- grade. The fun part comes up higher with the spectacular handcrack that goes on forever. Jan 24, 2007
Tony Yao
Boulder, CO
 
Tony Yao   Boulder, CO
 
Loved the route!!! Awesome stemming crux down low. Beautiful perfect hands up high. Superb! May 12, 2007
Brian Weinstein
  5.11+
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11+
Amazing and diverse pitch. The crux down low is thin and technical, enough to warrant the "+" IMO. Sep 28, 2007
m-earle
USA
 
m-earle   USA
 
I had a friend take a 30' ground fall on to his back from the 11+ start when three cams ripped. They were most likey placed poorly, but be warned, a big fall onto small gear is a bad idea. Sep 30, 2007
Brian Weinstein
  5.11+
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11+
Was your friend ok? You can see the amount of falls taken and gear rippage from the chips in the wingate. The key here is backing up your small pieces and stringing runner(s) appropriately. Oct 1, 2007
Uhmm... Guess that's why there use to be a bolt there. Folks, I know many do it, but I would recommend not trusting tiny cams in this rock for much. I can tell you, multiple true stories about small cams & even larger cams pulling in this rock with sometimes very bad consequences. Be careful and remember, it's a very long way to the Emergency Room from Indian Creek. Mar 2, 2009
JoergB
Germany
  5.11a R
JoergB   Germany
  5.11a R
On TR I considered the direct start not really difficult, but on lead the thin pro might be rather awful. Oct 14, 2009
Connor.Donahue
Portland OR
Connor.Donahue   Portland OR
Take care with the indirect start to the left. About thirty feet up, I knocked a big rock (25 lbs) loose with my foot, and narrowly missed my belayer. A helmet is a very good idea. The indirect start isn't hard, but it sure is chossy! Slings helped with rope drag in this section. Mar 14, 2010
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
This is possible to do with a single 70m rope. Granted, not all 70's are the same '70 meters' due to variations in manufacturing, cutting off the ends, etc... Just sharing my experience. Additionally, calling the direct start stemming (both here and in the Bloom guide) is somewhat misleading. Let's be honest, you chimney up to the roof and pull it on finger locks. Mar 28, 2010
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
 
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
 
I blew a cam out of the right flake (mine break was the 2nd one)....good route - actually - my favorite from my shortish trip to the creek. (Oh and my next cam caught thankfully) Sep 29, 2010
Eric and Lucie
Boulder, CO
Eric and Lucie   Boulder, CO
Our 70 m was about 15 feet short from reaching the ground, even fully stretched (brand new Mammut Climax 9.6mm x 70m). Fortunately had another rope handy. Nov 28, 2011
slim

  5.11b PG13
slim    
  5.11b PG13
you might want to send it in to mammut. i've climbed this several times with different 70's and have always had enough rope. Nov 29, 2011
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.11+
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.11+
Also short with Maxim 70m...

Sterling 70 works...barely Mar 30, 2013
Brandon Gottung
currently Las Cruces, NM
Brandon Gottung   currently Las Cruces, NM
A #3 ball nut in the solid crack on the left wall of the flare is about the best protection for the crux. Oct 21, 2013
Chris M
Hailey, ID
 
Chris M   Hailey, ID
 
very, very short with Maxim 70m Oct 22, 2013
Ryan Z
  5.11+
Ryan Z  
  5.11+
I led the direct start and thought 11+ was accurate. It was nice to have 2 green C3's for the chimney roof thing. 70m did not reach, not a Blue Water nor a Mammut. The downclimb from where a 70m leaves you is pretty easy; 5.8ish. There is nothing R-Rated about the direct start. Just place good gear. Oct 28, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
The direct start is definitely 11+, yes. I placed a yellow TCU, grey TCU, and a purple TCU, and they were all pretty reasonable. By far one of my favorite Creek climbs, a must do! Dec 2, 2014
David Kolcinski
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11
David Kolcinski   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11
Loved this route! Fun technical moves low down, amazing long impeccable hands up high. Felt like 5.11 on TR but would have felt much harder and scarier pulling those moves over small cams. Good rock quality but those placements just don't inspire confidence. Dec 3, 2018