Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Jason Haas and Sarah Maclean April, 2006
Page Views: 1,583 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jason Haas on Apr 23, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Just left of "Trip to the Vet" is this line with a shallow right facing corner starting about 15ft. up. Boulder up onto a ledge, and stand in a chimney that squeezes into an offwidth. Utilize the hand crack on the left wall and work your way up a wide hands to hands corner, with a few offwidth pods along the way. Chain anchors after 65ft. as a ledge is reached.

Location

This route is 10ft. left of "Trip to the Vet" and 10ft. right of the "Unnamed" 5.11+, route 24 in the David Bloom guidebook.

Protection

.75 camalot of the start, lots of #2 camalots, some #3s, 1 #4, and a #5 camalot is useful, but not necessary as you can plug gear in the handcrack to the left of the offwidth.

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claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
seemed easier than 10+... or at least easier than the 10 on either side of it.

started with a big cam but easy to avoid off-width climbing. could also place hands pieces in a side crack to start. Then reach past a pod and from there it is a fun narrowing corner to the chains. Nov 29, 2009
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
this was a very nice little route, and would make a good early lead for someone new to the desert who wanted to work towards doing tower routes. great find jason! Nov 30, 2009