Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,910 total · 13/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Apr 14, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This excellent pitch is located well to the left of the alcove containing Johnny Cat, Mad Dog, etc. There was a plaque identifying the route at the base when I did it. I'm pretty sure that a single 60m rope will get you off.

The pitch starts out by pulling a bulge to a good rest. The crux difficulties begin afterward with a bulging, obtuse corner on very tight hands (tight #1's). The crack eventually widens to perfect hands through a couple roofs to a final big-hands roof. A wide slot guards the anchors, so you may want to haul that #4 camalot up for this bit.

The grade above is from the guidebook, but it felt more like mid-5.11 to me. I have pretty thin hands though.


Lots of #1 and #2 camalots. Some #.5 and #.75 camalots for the start and a couple #3's for the top. One could also place a #4 in the slot at the top.


Joe Collins
Joe Collins  
Actually, you will need two ropes for this one (maybe 1 70m rope). Apr 29, 2003
A 70 meter rope will not get you off of this one. Take two ropes. The webbing at the top could use some repair. Feb 15, 2004
5.11- Mar 25, 2004
Scott N  
If you have #2 friends or near identical sizes you'll have a little easier time than trying the green/red camalot boogy at the bottom. Kick ass route! Nov 2, 2004
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
A great pitch! Didn't seem 5.12 to me. Also, not as classic as King Cat, so I would detract one star from this route and give it to King Cat making Alley 3.5 stars and King Cat 4 stars. May 4, 2007
Bart Paull
Golden, CO
Bart Paull   Golden, CO
Great climb, a couple of #2 Friends are definitely useful. Also, this one gets a bit sandy, it needs some more traffic. Apr 28, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Just repeated this route yesterday. I actually rapped off with a single 70 meter rope. When the end of the rope came into my belayer's grigri my feet were 4-feet off the ground. Easily downclimbed the rest. Not 5.12 but definitely not 11- either Mr. Anonymous Coward. May 14, 2008
chris Kalous  
Climbed this on 11/7/2009 and while it had a tendency to get a little dirty without traffic in the past, it was absolutely covered in mud inside and out, top to bottom. Horrendous. Even the anchors had collected a layer of mud. I think something above must have shifted or changed above to dump mud down the wall. I doubt it will clean up any time soon. This route is OUT! No stars. RIP. Nov 11, 2009
San Francisco, CA
Shino   San Francisco, CA
I was hoping it was sandier than the Arabian desert due to the recent rainstorm. Sad. This would otherwise be an incredible route.

Metal intensive: 1 yellow alien, 1 red alien, 2 BD .5s, 3 .75s, 6 #1s, 3 #2s, 2 #3s and 1 #4 for the top.

Sandiness notwithstanding, no move is harder than non-IC 10d, but this route is an endurofest. You're in spectacular shape if you can onsight. Tie a knot at the end. Without downclimbing you can ever-so-carefully get lowered down on a 70m (clip to a piece, undo knot, belayer's arm extension from the end, magic).

Bring a broom. Oct 25, 2010
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Just climbed this route and it was as clean as can be. I guess all the rain we've had this year cleaned it up. Great time to get on it. Oct 17, 2013
khoa   Tacomarado
fa: steve hong? his signature hanger is on the anchor

80m would probably make it down Nov 27, 2015
AL .
AL .   UT
80 meter rope gets you down nicely. 2 or 3 black metolius/#2 friend can be really handy. Jan 16, 2017