Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,263 total · 14/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Apr 14, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

This excellent pitch is located well to the left of the alcove containing Johnny Cat, Mad Dog, etc. There was a plaque identifying the route at the base when I did it. I'm pretty sure that a single 60m rope will get you off.

The pitch starts out by pulling a bulge to a good rest. The crux difficulties begin afterward with a bulging, obtuse corner on very tight hands (tight #1's). The crack eventually widens to perfect hands through a couple roofs to a final big-hands roof. A wide slot guards the anchors, so you may want to haul that #4 camalot up for this bit.

The grade above is from the guidebook, but it felt more like mid-5.11 to me. I have pretty thin hands though.

Protection

Lots of #1 and #2 camalots. Some #.5 and #.75 camalots for the start and a couple #3's for the top. One could also place a #4 in the slot at the top.

Photos