Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mason Earle, Nicolas Favresse
Page Views: 7,114 total · 58/month
Shared By: m-earle on Oct 28, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This unique pitch probably belongs in Vedauwoo, but makes a nice escape from all the boring splitters you usually find in the Creek.

Ascend a varied corner up into the alcove below the massive flared roof, then squirm and contort your way around the lip and up to the anchor.
The combination of bizzare movement, good gear and an awesome feature make this a must do for all visiting Jedi (and aspiring) offwidth climbers!

Location

From the Catmandu/ Cat touch this end of the cliff, walk about 5 minutes right on a faint trail. There is a plaque, but this route is very hard to miss.

Protection

2 #6 camalots
1 #4 camalot(to protect the first move off the deck)
1 #2
1 #1
2-3 finger sized

Photos

TomKingsbury  
 
Super cool feature!!! i found it harder than the 'brother', there's gotta be more eh? i also used invert beta rather than the crazy squeeze you boys were using, not sure what works better though....

patrick May 30, 2009
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
Not sure how you can do this without a VG9 or even VG12. I couldn't reach up deep enough to place any #6s once clear of the start. Be careful.. a swing out on lead could be messy.

I need someone out there to teach me how to climb this. I had no idea what to do and had to back off. Apr 11, 2017