Type: Trad
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 6,093 total · 28/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Apr 14, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


114 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This unusual Indian Creek finger crack actually has a crux that is more akin to face climbing. Be ready to pull it while protected by your smallest cams though. The route is way left of the Johnny Cat alcove, though not as far over as 9 Lives. There is a plaque at the base.

Climb the excellent finger crack at a sustained low-mid 5.11 level. A decent rest stance can be found just below the crux where the crack pinches to nothing. Fire in all the purple TCUs you brought and go for the crux. I have personally taken the short fall from the crux onto a purple TCU and it held. Even so, this is Wingate sandstone, not granite, so arrange your pro intelligently at the crux.

Protection

Lots of finger sized pieces... nothing bigger than a #.75 camalot. 2 or 3 Purple TCUs, or equivalent sized pieces, for the crux at the top are key.
This is an excellent climb. The first section is really enjoyable and the crux is hard but fun. In regards to the rack, I used 2 #1 cams and 2 #2 cams. There are a few good pods and the opening roof that allow the use of these larger cams so you can save the small stuff. May 29, 2003
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11+
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11+
great route, mostly .4's and yellow tcu's. Keep the gear close to your waist so you don't lose your good locks. Apr 14, 2007
could be wrong, but I think the FA was Jay Smith. Nov 1, 2009
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.11c/d
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.11c/d
Instead of saying "I think this one is soft for the grade", I'll qualify this by saying I think I'm good at finger cracks and face climbing. So if these are your strengths too, get on this thing and send! The Inflictor at Broken Tooth goes through the same size range and feels much harder, for whatever it's worth.
Very, very fun. Good stance allows you to place non-interfering pro high in the crux tips crack. Nov 17, 2010
Peter Yakovchuk
Tempe, AZ
Peter Yakovchuk   Tempe, AZ
I was wondering, who called this a 12- in the first place? This climb is significantly easier than Maxfactor at Vedauwoo, which is 11b or so. Seems like some of the routes at Indian Creek have pretty soft rating. but what do I know? I got good tips locks at the crux, and this climb is harder for people with big fingers Nov 28, 2011
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
stupid fun. wish it was longer. Aug 12, 2012
slim

  5.11c/d
slim    
  5.11c/d
really fun route. i always enjoy placing a bunch of smaller stuff on a route that is at a reasonable grade. i think the old 12- rating was based on the terrible shoes and lack of our modern protection options. in EB's, trying to cram friends into this, i would find it really hard. Mar 28, 2013
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.12-
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.12-
as with most I/C cracks its all about size...harder for bigger fingers Mar 30, 2013
matt j hartman
Leavenworth WA
matt j hartman   Leavenworth WA
calling this 5.12 is a joke. Jul 9, 2013
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
I remember the rock at the crux being on the soft side. I figured that originally the crack was super thin and over time has been buffed away to provide pretty good thin locks. That would explain the grade changing, but who knows. Oct 1, 2013
Matt Zia
Bozeman, MT
  5.11+
Matt Zia   Bozeman, MT
  5.11+
Bring at least one extra blue Metolius piece for the top. The purples are a touch under-cammed and pulling the crux above them in soft rock isn't super confidence inspiring. Feb 17, 2016
Scott .  
Purple metolius are too small for the crux. Bring blue metolius or 0.2 BD. You can also place a #1 and #2 or #3 in some of the pods. They give a good piece of mind with all the small gear you are plugging. Nov 28, 2017
Gabe O'Leary
Seattle, WA
 
Gabe O'Leary   Seattle, WA
 
The bolts a top this climb are somewhat suspect. The left bolt is loose, both hangar and the bolt itself, moving around in the hole under prodding. The right hangar is also loose. I'd recommend someone with the equipment and know how going up to take a look and definitely replacing the left bolt. Especially since this is such a fun climb. I don't know about the Crux being a face sequence, the moves above the crack felt much easier than the crack itself to me... Nov 15, 2018