Type: Trad
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 6,263 total · 28/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Apr 14, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

This unusual Indian Creek finger crack actually has a crux that is more akin to face climbing. Be ready to pull it while protected by your smallest cams though. The route is way left of the Johnny Cat alcove, though not as far over as 9 Lives. There is a plaque at the base.

Climb the excellent finger crack at a sustained low-mid 5.11 level. A decent rest stance can be found just below the crux where the crack pinches to nothing. Fire in all the purple TCUs you brought and go for the crux. I have personally taken the short fall from the crux onto a purple TCU and it held. Even so, this is Wingate sandstone, not granite, so arrange your pro intelligently at the crux.

Protection

Lots of finger sized pieces... nothing bigger than a #.75 camalot. 2 or 3 Purple TCUs, or equivalent sized pieces, for the crux at the top are key.

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