Abbienormal (aka Red Neck Rock Warrior)
5.13 YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks X- UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | D.Mabe, K.Melnick, L.Arevalo FFA: M.Patz 12/06 |
Page Views: | 9,790 total · 41/month |
Shared By: | Darren Mabe on Nov 19, 2005 |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Inspired as a memorial for Kim's dog, Abbie, who lived on this earth with her for 15 years.
Abbienormal is the right-facing dihedral located about 20 feet to the right of Pinky Groovy. Start from a ramp and a splitter handcrack in the left wall of the dihedral that joins the steep and overhanging tips lieback (crux!). The arete will help the moves pulling around the overhanging traverse right. Rest at the hand jam and arete stem, and make more "abnormal" moves (second crux!) until you reach good fingers (orange TCUs) for the rest of the way. Before the anchors is one more cruxy move changing corners, and a final horizontal crack jug to clip them.
This route was established on C1 aid and toprope. This sustained route is on par with the hardest routes at Cat Wall.
Abbienormal is the right-facing dihedral located about 20 feet to the right of Pinky Groovy. Start from a ramp and a splitter handcrack in the left wall of the dihedral that joins the steep and overhanging tips lieback (crux!). The arete will help the moves pulling around the overhanging traverse right. Rest at the hand jam and arete stem, and make more "abnormal" moves (second crux!) until you reach good fingers (orange TCUs) for the rest of the way. Before the anchors is one more cruxy move changing corners, and a final horizontal crack jug to clip them.
This route was established on C1 aid and toprope. This sustained route is on par with the hardest routes at Cat Wall.
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