Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: D.Mabe, K.Melnick, L.Arevalo FFA: M.Patz 12/06
Page Views: 8,355 total · 51/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Nov 19, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details


Inspired as a memorial for Kim's dog, Abbie, who lived on this earth with her for 15 years.

Abbienormal is the right-facing dihedral located about 20 feet to the right of Pinky Groovy. Start from a ramp and a splitter handcrack in the left wall of the dihedral that joins the steep and overhanging tips lieback (crux!). The arete will help the moves pulling around the overhanging traverse right. Rest at the hand jam and arete stem, and make more "abnormal" moves (second crux!) until you reach good fingers (orange TCUs) for the rest of the way. Before the anchors is one more cruxy move changing corners, and a final horizontal crack jug to clip them.

This route was established on C1 aid and toprope. This sustained route is on par with the hardest routes at Cat Wall.


Many purple TCUs, a few blue TCUs, several orange TCUs, a couple #.75 Camalots, and a few #1 and #2 Camalots.


Today I began my training for the FFA of Abbienormal. I woke up at 3 am and ran 26.3 miles in the buff.At 6 am I had a teaspoon of flax seed oil for breakfast.6:01 I began my campusing session by beginning with a 4 minute hang on the bottom then up to the 7th which I did 300 pull ups on then campused back to the bottom to hang again for another 4 minutes and repeated 20 times.By 10 I meditated for 3 hours.Now I had another teaspoon of flax seed oil for lunch and am preparing to run backwards for 13 miles in the buff.For dinner I will have 2 teaspoons of flax seed oil and then end the night by doing 1200 front levers on my front porch in the buff.I think by the spring I will have what it takes to levitate up the route. I am hoping to weigh 92 pounds and have grown 10 inches. Nov 28, 2005
Your going about the training all wrong! You need to pick a fine satchule of humbolts finest, and grab a six pack of tall boys.. Then you will send all your hardest projects with ease!!! Jan 26, 2006
first ascent yet? Mar 1, 2006
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
not that i've heard.
go get it! Mar 2, 2006
so is it 13 or 12+? the plack says 12+. did somebody make a plack and a rating without first redpointing? Apr 17, 2006
12+ is a guess. Neither of us could link the short tips lieback and the rest of the route would go at 12 from the arete buisness. Although purple tcu's pro this section there are some sweeter spots for your digits. Small fingered climbers should have a look since this bit is only about 7' giving way to bigger slots for your check to the arete. Did you get on the route? What do you think it goes at? Apr 17, 2006
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
The three of us agreed that its piss hard, though. harder than 5.11 but probably easier than 5.13+. My post of the route explained that i set the anchors after aiding it, then we played around on TR. i figured that once the crack gets a few ascents, the tips will naturally open up a bit. First go of it, i could not even get into the cuticles. just a few ascents will wear the inside of a tips crack, even by a few millimeters, which makes a big difference; whereas a few millimeters in a hand crack goes unnoticed until after a thousand or so ascents (ref Incredible Hand Crack...). Also, after a few falls or hang dogs on small TCUs, it will open up some of the crack, trust me. this is the reasoning for the grade discrepancy. I would put money on that whoever sends it first will be someone with tiny fingers, like Gnade or Rodden. which means the tentative 13 rating will probably be downgraded. but maybe not, since grades there are dependent on lead, placing gear.

in your Bloom guide, pg 112, Abbienormal is the shaded RF corner left of #53 (similar pic on pg 111). Apr 20, 2006
I would like to re-name this route "Red Neck Rock Warrior". I did it on 12/7/06 and I think it was the FFA. I didn't know it was a memorial for Kim's dog or else I may have thought twice, but I did make a new plaque after I did it. I don't mean to disrespect Abbie or anything -I'm sure she was a great dog. I would like to name this route after Alf Randell who just taught me a lot about red neck qualities.

Anyhow- it's a good hard route and I greatly appreciate that Darren and Kim recognized it and put in the anchors. Dec 9, 2006
Brad G
Brad G  
I’ve been working this thing for a couple days and I think I can say with confidence that the climbing goes at solid 5.13. Its extremely difficult to smear on the white sandstone and I’m pretty sure stemming the corner is the only possible way to get through the crux. I also think the smears have gotten gradually worse since I first started working it. Nov 15, 2011