Abbienormal (aka Red Neck Rock Warrior)
5.13 YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks X- UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.09105, -109.56274 |
| FA: | D.Mabe, K.Melnick, L.Arevalo FFA: M.Patz 12/06 |
| Page Views: | 9,927 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Darren Mabe on Nov 19, 2005 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
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RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Inspired as a memorial for Kim's dog, Abbie, who lived on this earth with her for 15 years.
Abbienormal is the right-facing dihedral located about 20 feet to the right of Pinky Groovy. Start from a ramp and a splitter handcrack in the left wall of the dihedral that joins the steep and overhanging tips lieback (crux!). The arete will help the moves pulling around the overhanging traverse right. Rest at the hand jam and arete stem, and make more "abnormal" moves (second crux!) until you reach good fingers (orange TCUs) for the rest of the way. Before the anchors is one more cruxy move changing corners, and a final horizontal crack jug to clip them.
This route was established on C1 aid and toprope. This sustained route is on par with the hardest routes at Cat Wall.



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