Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Heavy Duty
Page Views: 1,892 total · 10/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Apr 26, 2003 with updates from justino
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

An excellent, slowly widening, finger crack on the far right side of Cat Wall, immediately right of the long 5.10 splitter (right of Fat Cat). Two stars at Cat Wall, solid three stars anywhere else.

Begin with a boulder problem start protected by tiny cams to get off the ground. The meat of the climb is the 25 foot middle section where the crack widens from tips with decent feet, to fingers with crappy feet. As with most of the classic Indian Creek finger cracks, I found the crux to be actually getting in some kind of stance to place gear.

Protection

purple metolius for the start. Double set of cams from tips to thin hands. One hand sized piece for finish.

Photos

Max Schon
  5.11d
Max Schon  
  5.11d
Two blue aliens or purple TCUs will protect the start nicely. I don't recall any tips on this climb. More like bomber finger locks most of the way. The crux is bomber locks without feet. Purple Camalots work nicely. Feb 12, 2004
Rich Farnham  
 
A fun route that goes through all sizes of fingers and isn't any one size for very long. You could do this without an arsenal of the same size cams.

There is a short tips section at the start. It's just a boulder problem up to a good rest, and is well protected. There are a few crimpers on the face as well, but they aren't very good. Mar 9, 2005
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Whew! Highstep off the nice ledge onto some bad feet next to your chin while crimping on some slopey crimps to gain access to the crack, or yard on red c3. Hard start. The crack itself is great, with decent feet appearing here and there. Doubles in finger sizes. Nov 14, 2011
Mike broad
Tucson, AZ
Mike broad   Tucson, AZ
FA Heavy Duty. Aug 18, 2015
Rich Farnham  
 
How would people feel about relocating the anchor on this route?

It's hard to tell from the photos on this site, but the anchor is set way back in a recess, causing the rope to disappear deep into the crack as you lower or TR it. It seems that rather than have the rope in the crack, many people are running it over the edge of the ledge which is starting to create deep grooves in the rock.

I think we could move the anchors to wall left of the crack, which would keep the rope out on the main face of the wall, and prevent any damage. I'll upload a photo showing what I'm talking about. There are two possibilities that I can see. The upper location would mean no climbing is lost, but I cant recall if that small ledge below it is a problem. The lower location might eliminate a move or two, but it's pretty easy at that point. Mar 11, 2016
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
i think it sounds like a good idea. Mar 15, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Sounds good to me too and i think this kind of thing could/should be considered for MANY routes in Indian Creek.. Mar 15, 2016