Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: P1 Ukn, P2,3 Kim & Matt Lisenby, Will Hays
Page Views: 764 total · 6/month
Shared By: Matt Lisenby on Sep 12, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

P1(.11c): Climb the difficult fingercrack to a ledge at the bottom of a chimney. 5.11c.
P2(.10-): Scamper up the squeeze chimney passing a fixed pin, to bolt anchors, 5.10-R.
P3(.12-): Traverse Right past a bolt(or two) on unusual face holds to a right facing corner. Go up the corner to a zig-zagging splitter in the wide fingers/very thin hands range(green & red camalots)until you get to a roof. Undercling right 10 feet under the roof to an overhanging thin hands crack. Crank 15 feet or so to the anchor.

Location

Located about 20 yards right of King Cat, before reaching Lynx and Line King. Rappel Double ropes to an anchor on a route directly below the top anchors; Then on one rope to the ground.

Protection

Triples in the thin fingers, fingers, fat fingers ranges, doubles otherwise up to #3 camalot. A huge cam or a couple of tube chocks could remove the 'R' from the squeeze, but really its not so bad.

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