Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: zack smith
Page Views: 4,123 total · 34/month
Shared By: Duncan P Ryan on Mar 20, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Uncharacteristic for an Indian Creek route in that the climb does not rely on crack climbing. Make your way up the first half of the route on an array of shelves, wraps and rounded crimpers. The meat of the climb is moving through a very small tips crack (about 20 feet). Unless you have fingers thinner than the diameter of a #2 pencil, just treat this section as a long 1/4-pad crimp fest. After a good stance on top of the thin crack, step in pods, maybe use a nearly invisible ledge and find your way to a series of jugs.

Location

On the right facing side of the dihedral Kool Cat ascends. Look for the jagged crack creeping its way up the middle section.

Protection

According to Bloom, 7x 0.4 cams (gold friends). Might consider grouping placements of this size next to each other. Anchors can alternatively be reached from lowering off the Kool Cat anchors and climbing up the upper jugs. Be careful of swing potential, though.

Photos

Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
metolius blue x3 purple x3 grey x2 and 1 red camalot
this testpiece is being toproped to death... Apr 18, 2014
Nate Sydnor
Moab
 
Nate Sydnor   Moab
 
Haha Matt! Top-roped to death, eh?! Have you actually led this thing with that rack?! :)

All bullshitting with Matt aside, from my experience, I would say that his gear beta could get you in trouble. I preferred multiple red c3s and blue TCUs. I used 6 total. 3 is a major stretch on safety in my opinion. Also, in the crux I thought that purple TCUs were a little baggy. The old, yellow BD .2 I have, which has a hair bigger range, fit better. In the upper section I used a #2 BD, a purple c3 and a grey Metolius. Dec 3, 2016
AL .
UT
  5.12d
AL .   UT
  5.12d
I agree with Nathan's gear beta. My smallest piece was one .1 x4, aside from that 3 .2 camalots protected the crux much better than purple metolius. Bring plenty (5-6) of blue metolius/red C3. People have nearly decked from the end of the crux using purple metolius cams. Jan 15, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Unique and fun climbing! Red C3s fit really well up to the crux, then 0.2 X4s fit, thinning into purple mastercams. The top is grey mastercam to black alien to purple C3. Oct 16, 2018