Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: zack smith
Page Views: 4,694 total · 34/month
Shared By: Duncan P Ryan on Mar 20, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

Uncharacteristic for an Indian Creek route in that the climb does not rely on crack climbing. Make your way up the first half of the route on an array of shelves, wraps and rounded crimpers. The meat of the climb is moving through a very small tips crack (about 20 feet). Unless you have fingers thinner than the diameter of a #2 pencil, just treat this section as a long 1/4-pad crimp fest. After a good stance on top of the thin crack, step in pods, maybe use a nearly invisible ledge and find your way to a series of jugs.

Location

On the right facing side of the dihedral Kool Cat ascends. Look for the jagged crack creeping its way up the middle section.

Protection

According to Bloom, 7x 0.4 cams (gold friends). Might consider grouping placements of this size next to each other. Anchors can alternatively be reached from lowering off the Kool Cat anchors and climbing up the upper jugs. Be careful of swing potential, though.

Photos