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Dead Crow [Suggest Change]
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.7 from 25
votes
Routes in (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Cat Wall
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100th Monkey T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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9 Lives T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Abbienormal (aka Red Neck Rock Warrior) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Acme Plaque Me T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Alley Cat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bachelor Party T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bad Cat T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Burl Dog T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cat Box T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat Burglar T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cat Got Your Tongue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat Nap T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cat Scan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cat Woman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cat in the Hat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cat's Cradle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cat's Paw T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cat's in the Doghouse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Catastroph T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Catastrophe T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Caterpillar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cathedral of the Mad Feline T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cathouse, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Catskills T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Catsup T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cattle Call T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Child Abuse T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Choke Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Curiosity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dead Crow T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Deseret Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Doggie Go T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Doghouse, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fat Cat T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Felix T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Flatulent Cat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Berlin T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Furr Ball T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hairbald T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Here Kitty Kitty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Holy Catrimony T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Incredible Butt Crack, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Johnny Cat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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King Cat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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King of Beasts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Kitten, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kitty Litter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kool Cat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kung Pao Cat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Line King, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lioness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Look What Zog Do T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Love Cats T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lynx T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maceo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mad Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Meow Mix T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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More Than One Way T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mousetrap T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Take On The Flake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pinky Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pit Bull Terror T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Puddy Tat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Puma T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pussy Cat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pussy Galore T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pussy Whipped T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sabertooth T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stokat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Super Cat of the Desert T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sylvester T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tasmania T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Tender Vittles T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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To Be Deleted (Unnamed 19) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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To Skin a Cat T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tom Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trip to the Vet T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 67 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown 5.10 47 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 11+ (right of Maceo) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unnamed 5.10 -Route 60 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10: Route 41 ( 46 in 2nd edition of Bloom) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Cat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft |
| FA: | Steve Hong |
| Page Views: | 3,141 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 19, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Suggest Change]
A great climb for 100' of 5.10, to an interesting band with some loose flakes, then a wild, off-hands steep section to an off-fist crux. Rough for those with small hands. Tape up and wear long sleeves. I did neither and gave blood.
Start at .6" for pro and work up past some less than perfect rock, but with good gear until the crack reaches 1.5" is size,placing one of everything in between on the way up. The rock then gets very good and the crack gets to about 2" wide for a few placements, then to 2.5" with perhaps 2 of each size. (Can substitute green & red camalots) then good hand-sized gear (2.5-3") for a short while through fairly mellow climbing to another section of thing hands. Place another 2" or red camalot and continue on passing gear from 2.5-3.5". After about 100 feet you will start into some softer rock with some light colored flakes that deserve respect and attention; if you care for your belayer's life don't snap them off. Climb slightly runout through this light rock band with OK pro here and there to reach a bulge with a 2" cam overhead and then 3-3.5" cams ad you lean and twist to the left through a steep, hooking off-hands to off-fist crack to reach the anchor. This section is some of the wildest climbing in the creek and deserves a place in the classics list.
Start at .6" for pro and work up past some less than perfect rock, but with good gear until the crack reaches 1.5" is size,placing one of everything in between on the way up. The rock then gets very good and the crack gets to about 2" wide for a few placements, then to 2.5" with perhaps 2 of each size. (Can substitute green & red camalots) then good hand-sized gear (2.5-3") for a short while through fairly mellow climbing to another section of thing hands. Place another 2" or red camalot and continue on passing gear from 2.5-3.5". After about 100 feet you will start into some softer rock with some light colored flakes that deserve respect and attention; if you care for your belayer's life don't snap them off. Climb slightly runout through this light rock band with OK pro here and there to reach a bulge with a 2" cam overhead and then 3-3.5" cams ad you lean and twist to the left through a steep, hooking off-hands to off-fist crack to reach the anchor. This section is some of the wildest climbing in the creek and deserves a place in the classics list.
Location [Suggest Change]
This route is a few hundred yards right of where the left approach trail reaches the wall. Hit the wall and walk right, keeping an eye upward for a huge twisting crack to corkscrew up and left though a light band of rock not far right of a right facing corner, and just right of "Trip To The Vet."
Protection [Suggest Change]
A light rack from .6"-1.5", then maybe four #2's (save one for entering the crux up high) and four #2.5's, plus a slew of #3-3.5's plus two 3.5 camalots or possibly #4 friends, on of which is your final and crux piece.
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