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Areas in The Book

Book Boulders, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Isis Buttress 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
J-Crack Slab Area 22 / 5 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
Pages Wall Area, The 27 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Renaissance Wall 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Tombstone 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

In the opinion of many, the Book is the finest cliff on Lumpy Ridge. It certainly offers the best non-wide crack climbing (if you like them wide, head for Twin Owls!). Many long, striking crack and dihedral lines grace the complex cliff, which rises to heights of 600'. Due to the cliff's predominant less-than-vertical aspect, many of these lines check in at under 5.10, though there are plenty of test-pieces at 5.10 and 5.11 as well. A few bolt-protected 5.12s are scattered about, and true hardpersons can attempt the 5.13+ crack line of Country Boy, first freed by Tommy Caldwell.

Some recommended routes would include Pear Buttress at 5.8; Loose Ends and J-Crack at 5.9; Fat City, Cheap Date, and many others at 5.10, and any of the 5.11 routes such as Howling at the Wind that ascend in or near the Howling dihedral. The Renaissance Wall and El Camino Real are said to be good 5.12 routes. The Book also has many 1-pitch routes (including first pitches of longer lines) which are a good alternative if the weather looks iffy for a longer route. Fixed anchors seem to come and go, however...

DESCENT: From the very top of the cliff, one can walk east a ways, beyond a steep broken area, and then contour back to the base (long and easy). Many routes end just above the "Cave" on the right side of the Book. From here, scramble out on a narrow ledge east to its end, and downclimb a groove (or do a short rappel from a tree a little ways out). From the bottom of the groove, go southeast (easier but longer) to walking terrain, or head southwest down more grooves to a cairn at the top of a east-angling chimney/gully. Go down that and one more chimney to walking terrain. Like the east slabs descent in Eldorado Canyon, this shorter descent should not be attempted in the dark or when wet unless you are familiar with it. No rappel route exists that I know of and none is needed.
Season raptor closures Details

Getting There

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. The Book is a complex cliff; here is an attempt to describe it. Starting from the east, as you view the south-facing cliff from the Black Canyon trail, note a broken area of slabs and gullies (the Cave descent). Just left is the beautiful J-Crack Slab, sporting the very long parallel crack lines of Femp and J-Crack, and several other excellent crack lines to their left. Above are some reddish overhangs on the right, a cavernous overhang (The Cave!), and to the left, a short, steep headwall capping the cliff. ~45-50 minutes to approach.

The next major landmark is the Howling at the Wind dihedral, a massive, overhanging left-facing corner which extends about halfway up the cliff. Many superb and intimidating free lines attack this feature and the overhangs nearby. Left of it are narrow, smooth slabs, with an arching roof band about 150 feet up. The next section is obvious: an area of deep grooves which extend the entire length of the cliff, known as the Pages Wall. Left again are two massive chimneys running the entire height of the cliff (Book of the Dead Chimney and Requiem Chimney). A narrow prow between the two, known as the Isis Buttress, offers many excellent routes. The western-most chimney includes the brilliant Renaissance Wall, home to numerous hard bolted & naturally protected climbs. Left of the west-most chimney the cliff becomes broken and unappealing for a long stretch and no routes are recorded here. Below this broken area is The Bookmark, a subsidary cliff about 400 feet high, described elsewhere.

81 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Book

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Cave Exit
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Osiris
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pear Buttress
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Loose Ends
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George's Tree
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-Crack
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Date
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Visual Aids
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fat City Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thindependence
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outlander
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Howling at the Wind
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living Dead
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Corner Pump Station
Trad 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead Boy Direct
Trad
The Cave Exit J-Crack Slab Area 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Osiris Pages Wall Area 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Pear Buttress J-Crack Slab Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Loose Ends J-Crack Slab Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
George's Tree Pages Wall Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
J-Crack J-Crack Slab Area 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Cheap Date Pages Wall Area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Visual Aids J-Crack Slab Area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Fat City Crack Pages Wall Area 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Thindependence J-Crack Slab Area 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Outlander Pages Wall Area 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Howling at the Wind Pages Wall Area 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Living Dead Isis Buttress 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Corner Pump Station Pages Wall Area 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Dead Boy Direct Isis Buttress 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Scott  
Found a watch near the base of Pear Buttress today. I left it near the trailhead but out of sight so nobody would take it. PM if it is yours, and I will let you know where it is located. Jun 21, 2017
Lee Landkamer
Golden, CO
Lee Landkamer   Golden, CO
I found a pair of trekking poles at the base of the Book on 16-June, 12. Contact me with a description and I will get them to you. Jun 17, 2012
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
It would be great to have a separate section in here for the Renaissance Wall. I would be happy to write it up as well. May 4, 2009
My guess is that Brian is referring to Time Machine, which is located on a 40-ft block just right of the base of The Bookmark (not listed on this site as of 8-10-08; a 5.11b Lawrence Stuemke route from 1995). Aug 10, 2008
Brian, the route you're asking about sounds like Shinbuster. Aug 9, 2008
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
What route starts on a boulder straight downhill from the Book of the Dead? It has two bolts, then goes up a thin crack/left-facing corner. Aug 9, 2008

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