Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | Malcolm Daly? |
Page Views: | 6,777 total · 33/month |
Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Jun 1, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
Outlander is a fantastic, steep 2-pitch route at the top of the Book, with varied climbing. Start with any of the 3 to 4 pitch routes that lead up to the Cave area. Most people do Cheap Date and then the final pitch of Outlander, but P1 of Outlander is comparable in quality to Cheap Date.
It is most expedient to belay on a ramp down and left from the Cave in a little alcove, with some blocks and loose flakes.
P1 - climb up into the prominent left-trending arch (the significant dihedral left of the Cave) above the ramp/alcove, using a short, funky 5.9 crack. Follow the arch, interesting 5.9, to a little alcove beneath a beautiful finger crack which rises out of a small roof. Climb that (sustained 5.10b) and belay on a low-angle slab.
P2 (5.10c) - go easily up the slab and mantle onto a platform beneath the final steep headwall. Hand traverse left into a pod (3.5 Friend helpful in the pod, to free up a good jam), rest, and finish up with thin hands and then fingers to the top of the Book.
Descend by scrambling down grooves, 4th class, to join the normal descent from the Cave area or take the long walk-off as described.
It is most expedient to belay on a ramp down and left from the Cave in a little alcove, with some blocks and loose flakes.
P1 - climb up into the prominent left-trending arch (the significant dihedral left of the Cave) above the ramp/alcove, using a short, funky 5.9 crack. Follow the arch, interesting 5.9, to a little alcove beneath a beautiful finger crack which rises out of a small roof. Climb that (sustained 5.10b) and belay on a low-angle slab.
P2 (5.10c) - go easily up the slab and mantle onto a platform beneath the final steep headwall. Hand traverse left into a pod (3.5 Friend helpful in the pod, to free up a good jam), rest, and finish up with thin hands and then fingers to the top of the Book.
Descend by scrambling down grooves, 4th class, to join the normal descent from the Cave area or take the long walk-off as described.
Fort Collins
Golden, CO
A great way to reach this climb is by taking Thindependence (10c) to the 10b traverse into J Crack (9). Then take the 5.2 crack to the left below the cave for a good belay. The link up is worthy of 1 million stars. Apr 23, 2006
Golden
Fort Collins CO
Pinewood Springs
P2: I stuffed the 3.5 at the pod, did a lay back into the upper section and went to the top w/o other gear. This was not my plan but once I got into the layback I was hesitant to pull in to look for placements, I hadn't paired down the rack, doh! Anyway I'm wondering now if I could have decked if I came off at the top? Thankfully the climbing was straightforward. Aug 27, 2007
Minneapolis, MN
Around Boulder, CO
The Bubble
I'm surprised no one mentioned the linkup we did today, worthy of a few million stars:
P1 Pear Buttress to belay ledge below Thindependence.
P2 Thindependence and downclimb a little and right.
P3 Traverse 10b into J Crack past flexing flake, 1 piton, 1 bolt then fire up J Crack.
P4 If you're ballsy, fire up the 11c part of J-Crack. Or just do the 10a PG variation and fire up easy ground to a belay below Cheap Date.
P5 Cheap Date, the best pitch I've ever done at Lumpy yet.
P6 Outlander.
This link up is guaranteed to put a smile on your face. Aug 20, 2010
Ft Collins, CO
Ridgway, CO