Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ray Jardine
Page Views: 20,702 total · 87/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Peregrine nesting closure - through 7/31/20 Details
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is one of the best routes at Lumpy Ridge, and the Fat City-Cheap Date link-up is among the best 5.10 outings in Colorado. Take the trail to the Book, and just before you reach the rock, take the left branch. Fat City starts just left of the giant, landmark Howling at the Wind dihedral. You're aiming for the apex of the long roof band left of the dihedral.

P1. Climb a left-leaning crack that starts as a seam a few feet left of the giant corner, but turns into a finger & hand crack (not to be confused with the first pitch of Perelandra, a left-leaning crack that remains thin). Belay at bolts after ~105 feet (you can just barely get down from here with a 60 meter rope).

P2. Continue up the crack, which turns into 5.10a seam (micro gear), hand traverse left to a slot, climb that (good bolt and/or #3 Camalot), and grovel over the awkward roof where a good crack passes through the apex (crux). Belay at a stance just above.

P3. Lieback up the right-leaning system, stepping right when things appear harder than 5.9. Get to the "Cave", the standard exit for climbs on the right side of The Book.

P4. Do that (5.8) or, better, finish with Cheap Date and Outlander for a fantastic, sustained 5.10 climb.

Protection

A standard rack to a #3.5 Friend; micro-nuts are handy for the P2 seam.

Photos