Avg: 3.7 from 180 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||20,702 total · 87/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
P1. Climb a left-leaning crack that starts as a seam a few feet left of the giant corner, but turns into a finger & hand crack (not to be confused with the first pitch of Perelandra, a left-leaning crack that remains thin). Belay at bolts after ~105 feet (you can just barely get down from here with a 60 meter rope).
P2. Continue up the crack, which turns into 5.10a seam (micro gear), hand traverse left to a slot, climb that (good bolt and/or #3 Camalot), and grovel over the awkward roof where a good crack passes through the apex (crux). Belay at a stance just above.
P3. Lieback up the right-leaning system, stepping right when things appear harder than 5.9. Get to the "Cave", the standard exit for climbs on the right side of The Book.
P4. Do that (5.8) or, better, finish with Cheap Date and Outlander for a fantastic, sustained 5.10 climb.