Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Johnson and Pete Robinson, 1964
Page Views: 27,808 total · 117/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine nesting closure - through 7/31/20 Details
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is agreat route up the "pages" of the Book (right book). Many people call this a sandbag, but I think it is just sustained climbing at 5.7. It is a long, steep, and beautiful route.

P1. Left of George's Tree, locate a large crack (starts hands-offwidth bulge to chimney). Jam and chimney your way up to the ledge (long pitch), ~150'.

P2. Take grooves/cracks up to tree belay (50 feet). [This can be linked with P1].

P3. Take the LARGE, right-facing dihedral up the ever steepening wall, past a bulge (crux) and onto Fang ledge....very long pitch (60m).

P4. Get on top of the Fang and jam steep cracks straight up, past bulge, to tree where angle eases back (can continue to summit via easy cracks or belay here).

P5. Climb easy cracks up and left to summit (avoiding headwall) or take one of many cracks up and right to headwall (see guidebook).

Descend east and south in steep gully systems or rappel from trees down gully (if wet, dark or scared).

Per chipacles: bailing off even the first pitch [may] require two ropes or leaving gear behind.

Protection

Standard rack, doubles in hand sizes helpful. Some fixed anchors (trees) and some gear.

Photos