Avg: 2.6 from 258 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Dave Johnson and Pete Robinson, 1964|
|Page Views:||30,176 total · 112/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
P1. Left of George's Tree, locate a large crack (starts hands-offwidth bulge to chimney). Jam and chimney your way up to the ledge (long pitch), ~150'.
P2. Take grooves/cracks up to tree belay (50 feet). [This can be linked with P1].
P3. Take the LARGE, right-facing dihedral up the ever steepening wall, past a bulge (crux) and onto Fang ledge....very long pitch (60m).
P4. Get on top of the Fang and jam steep cracks straight up, past bulge, to tree where angle eases back (can continue to summit via easy cracks or belay here).
P5. Climb easy cracks up and left to summit (avoiding headwall) or take one of many cracks up and right to headwall (see guidebook).
Descend east and south in steep gully systems or rappel from trees down gully (if wet, dark or scared).
Per chipacles: bailing off even the first pitch [may] require two ropes or leaving gear behind.