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44, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Box, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
El Camino Real T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fat City Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Chapter, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frisky Puppies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
George is Phat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
George's Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Plains Drifter T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling at the Wind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hurley Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Midway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Music T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Osiris T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outlander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perelandra T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pseudo Wallet Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stepped On T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
That Hideous Strength T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Toot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wolfie and the Scientist T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Johnson and Pete Robinson, 1964
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Shared By: Matt Bauman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is agreat route up the "pages" of the Book (right book). Many people call this a sandbag, but I think it is just sustained climbing at 5.7. It is a long, steep, and beautiful route.

P1. Left of George's Tree, locate a large crack (starts hands-offwidth bulge to chimney). Jam and chimney your way up to the ledge (long pitch), ~150'.

P2. Take grooves/cracks up to tree belay (50 feet). [This can be linked with P1].

P3. Take the LARGE, right-facing dihedral up the ever steepening wall, past a bulge (crux) and onto Fang ledge....very long pitch (60m).

P4. Get on top of the Fang and jam steep cracks straight up, past bulge, to tree where angle eases back (can continue to summit via easy cracks or belay here).

P5. Climb easy cracks up and left to summit (avoiding headwall) or take one of many cracks up and right to headwall (see guidebook).

Descend east and south in steep gully systems or rappel from trees down gully (if wet, dark or scared).

Per chipacles: bailing off even the first pitch [may] require two ropes or leaving gear behind.

Protection

Standard rack, doubles in hand sizes helpful. Some fixed anchors (trees) and some gear.
Rodger Raubach
  5.8-
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8-
Yeah, I see from all the posts that it's an either "love it or hate it" route. I am ambivalent about the climb, but on my only ascent I had the honor of leading the first OW-chimney pitch. At the time, I had an inflamed shoulder and had been getting cortisone shots; the first pitch seemed to inflame my entire body, but we chugged up the route in decent style. I'm actually planning on a repeat ascent next summer with a visiting climber from Hungary, I just gave the route my rating at 5.8-. I generally avoid OW/flared cracks as much as possible, but the route is decent with 2 stars. Oct 9, 2017
Andy W
Fort Collins, CO
 
Andy W   Fort Collins, CO
 
I thought this route to be an excellent intro to Lumpy; however, non-offwidth lovers need not apply. For anyone who has spent more than a day at Voo or has proper offwidth technique, you'll love P1 (recommend link with P2). True old school 5.7 with varied secure climbing, great pro to the discerning eye, and beautiful views throughout. Steeper crack from middle of Fang Ledge was great but could have used a better line through licheny fins above to summit. 3 pitches total with a 70m. Should have spent more time studying the descent. Just remember, having to work hard doesn't mean it isn't fun. Aug 18, 2017
Keith W
  5.7+
Keith W  
  5.7+
My 2 cents, this climb is awesome. Lots of different techniques are required for each pitch. The wide climbing was engaging and strenuous but not horrible thrutching to gain an inch. All of the other pitches are quite fun, and each has an interesting crux sequence. I thought pitch 1 was way harder than pitch 3 (which has the best crack climbing of the route). Overall, a little sandbagged but isn't everything at Lumpy? It is also much more exciting when you top out and a lightning storm is starting to pound Estes Park. Jul 10, 2017
I found a rope stuck on this route on 7/1. Contact me via PM if it is yours Jul 5, 2017
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.7+
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.7+
Great route, totally old school. Grunting - check. Thrashing - check. Swearing - check. You will come away battered and bloody and either smiling madly, or you'll go back to clipping bolts. Jun 26, 2015
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Surely, that was a sarcastic comment, right NOCO? You aren't actually a self described "crack climber" that dislikes route finding, right? Jul 29, 2014
NOCO Crystal
Loveland, CO
 
NOCO Crystal   Loveland, CO
 
I followed this route and thought it was no fun. I am a crack climber and felt this to be unpleasant and required route finding. The protection is OK. You can link P1 and P2 just barely with a 60m rope. The downclimb is unpleasant. I would not recommend it as a classic and would just not recommend this at all. Jul 28, 2014
Bob Smith 1  
 
Pitch 1 kicked my ass, but I felt accomplished afterwards. I loved pitch 3 and belayed from a rock (maybe a fang?) on The Fang ledge. Overall, I think the best part of the climb was the views. I probably won't do it again, but it was a worthwhile experience. May 28, 2014
Eliot Augusto
Boulder, CO
  5.8-
Eliot Augusto   Boulder, CO
  5.8-
Did this yesterday. Pitch 1 and 2 were grunt fests and completely boring. Pitch 3 was nice, but I ended up taking a pretty big fall trying to climb the dihedral all the way. Pulled out a questionable #4 along the way. Move right into the parallel cracks, route finding is winning. Pitch 4 looked awful and wasn't much better.

I won't go back, but I can see how this would be a good climb for people already in the 11s. If you're a beginner climber (like me), this isn't your standard 5.7. Protects well though. May 6, 2014
Canon
  5.8-
Canon  
  5.8-
P1 is awful. P2 is bad. P3 and P4 are fun. P5 is only there because of rope drag. The lower pitches don't make the upper pitches worth it. When you make the Fang ledge after P3, P4 starts on the FAR LEFT side of the ledge, on top of the Fang itself. If you go straight up from the P3 belay, the cracks are MUCH harder than 5.7. Let the presence of bushes and foliage in the cracks be your guide. May 4, 2014
J Jenk
  5.7
J Jenk  
  5.7
Tried to climb this a few years ago (1st climb at Lumpy), and my partner and I got our butts kicked. We ended up bailing after the second pitch.
Recently returned and found it extremely easy.... I attribute this to plenty of experience with off-widths and chimneys since the first attempt. The first pitch it super duper fun (chimney with hand crack! what more could you want?), and the rest of the climb is decently fun too. Definitely worth a go. Jun 17, 2013
tongmengjia
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7+
tongmengjia   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7+
I decided to climb this a week ago, and it's been interesting reading the whole set of comments up til today, and the finally getting to climb it (I climbed it three years ago but didn't remember much).

I don't know how you can't love this route. The first pitch is awesome. It's strenuous but completely secure. I placed almost every piece of gear from a comfortable, no-hands stance. In my opinion, the crux started a couple body lengths below the first belay ledge.

I linked P1 & P2. P2 doesn't really stand out in any way, but it was definitely a fun pitch. The P3 dihedral is a cool feature, with some good hand and foot jams, and some flared, thin spots. The crux is vertical, and took some planning out. Once you're through the bulge, though, it's over.

I linked P4 and P5. Getting off the Fang and into the crack is no gimme. The rest of the pitch is nothing great. Lots of foliage in the cracks and dirty rock. But it's not bad climbing, and it's really just the last bit of scrambling to the summit.

Definitely gave this one 3 stars. Apr 6, 2012
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
It takes awhile to get used to flaring cracks. If all you're used to are Yosemite and Indian Creek splitters, these are an acquired taste. Climb a few more, like George's Tree, and you'll get the hang of it. Then when you've really got your act in gear, try Crack of Fear on the Twin Owls (I backed off in fear and lack of energy after the 1st 50 ft, and I was following!). Apr 2, 2012
brat
  5.7+ PG13
brat  
  5.7+ PG13
So, I lived in Yosemite for years and have had more than my share of old school 5.7 granite chimneys. I can enjoy that stuff. I am definitely not a sport climber.

And I downright hated Osiris. I'll go out on a limb and say it was possibly the least enjoyable climb of my life (and I climbed it on a beautiful day with beautiful people.)

The first pitch was grunty, but not bad, but the rest of it was flared, loose, convoluted, and had bushes growing out of it. I've only climbed a few routes at Lumpy before this, so maybe this is par for the course there, but I sure hope not. The guidebook called it a classic, so perhaps I am destined to hate Lumpy. Apr 2, 2012
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.7
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
  5.7
Came in to Colorado, first day out went to Lumpy and got hit HARD with altitude sickness. However, we pushed forward and hit this climb. Definitely a suggested climb. I thought the crux pitch was pitch one, but I did take a while to get used to granite. You Colorado folks sure are lucky to have this stuff in your backyard. Mar 18, 2012
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
You can bail from the 1st or 2nd pitch with one rope. Believe me, I've been rained off a couple times.... Obviously, the tree is the first anchor. The 1st pitch belay ledge usually has slings in place on the right side (if you are expecting to bail, bring some extra webbing and rings). From here, you can get to the anchor for George's Tree, and from here to the ground. I would agree that it is harder to get down with one rope from P3 and higher.... Oct 17, 2011
I wish someone would correct the route description on this line. It's worse to get bad, COMPLETELY WRONG beta than to get no beta at all. So, to clarify:

The first pitch is long, perhaps 150 feet, and the belay ledge has NO TREE.

Pitch two has a tree and this can linked with P1 for a nice long climb.

I agree with an earlier poster that there is no "hand crack" on pitch three...there are some cracks, some parts of which are hands, but it's not a "hand crack"....unless you count varying widths and flaring shallow cracks as "hand cracks."

Request of the admin: please correct the beta so other people aren't thrown off... and while you're at it, mention that bailing off even the first pitch is going to require two ropes or leaving gear behind.... Oct 17, 2011
Kevin Wieczorek  
  5.7
Whether or not you like this climb all depends on if you like (or know how) to climb chimneys, I dig it. I’ve done this route twice now and it amazes me how many people hate on pitch one, and claim it is not 5.7. It isn’t, it’s 5.6. If you know how to chimney, a lot of the moves on the first pitch have no-hands rests. I have taken a couple of gym climbers up this and they found the first pitch strenuous and exhausting. This is purely due to lack of technique.
I have tried both variations on pitch three, and find the cracks to the right more fun, and cleaner, than the right-facing corner to the left. The variation on pitch two that the Gillett guide calls a ‘hand crack’ looks like off-width for most people, and I haven’t done it due to a lack of big gear. In general, people’s enjoyment of a climb is in part tied to their performance on it. Many climbers do not have experience with chimneys and therefore struggle on the wide sections of this climb. If you do not like chimneys, you should walk on by, otherwise this is a fun, long, and moderate route. Oct 1, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
My first and only climb in RMNP during a recent visit to Boulder. Led P1 and P4/5 (linked). Thought this was a fantastic route. If you don't like slabby handcracks and chimney climbing, then stay away. I'm amazed at the people who flame on this route and it's obvious they don't like crack/chimney climbing...what did you expect?!?! My partner and I both agreed it was a great route with a lot of variety. Oh and both of us did it with day packs and didn't have too much trouble. Sep 13, 2011
Rodger Raubach
  5.8-
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8-
Nobody ever said that chimney-offwidth is really enjoyable, but it certainly makes this route a good training climb for the Durrance on Devil's Tower. I only gave this route 2 stars, 'cause I don't really enjoy the "wyde" all that much. A great line and varied climbing the remainder of the route, though. Jul 2, 2011
OReid
Denver, CO
  5.8
OReid   Denver, CO
  5.8
Great climb! You can easily link the 1st and 2nd, and the 3rd and 4th pitches, making it to the top in three full rope lengths. We didn't experience any rope-drag issues with doing it this way. A #4 Camalot is useful but not required. I felt that this climb was more 5.8 than 5.7, but that could be a matter of route finding, which isn't obvious. It seemed that there could be several variations to each pitch. Jun 6, 2011
Most of the comments on this route indicate the opposing views that this route is either awful or that it is great. I had a friend highly recommend it to me, but upon completion, my second and I agreed it was awful. Other members of our group concurred with this analysis.

The guidebook gives a 5.8 variation on the second pitch that's supposed to be a "hand crack"-- this crack is wider than hand/fist stack. Attempting this pitch on the assumption that hand-sized gear will be okay results in VERY sketchy running out, especially if you link the first two pitches believing your 5.8 hand crack technique is all you'll need.

I will disclaim that my partner and I did not climb the last pitch, as we were flustered from the first ones and went up the section of wall labeled "many cracks" in the guidebook, because we did not go to the left of the tooth. Dec 15, 2010
Rodger Raubach
  5.8-
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8-
This is a great route, and the first pitch sets it apart from most other Lumpy Ridge climbs. Never any harder than 5.7 (Old School), but chimney/offwidth gives a good full body workout. I climbed the chimney L. side in, and then used a different crack for left hand jams. I gave it 2 stars. Jul 25, 2010
Since I climbed this with Brian (comment above), I'm a bit reluctant to say that I struggled on this first pitch as much or more than on the supposedly 5.10 Obi Wan in Unaweep! By far the crux of the climb IMO, maybe it was the hydration pack or maybe I'm just getting old, good protection though Brian led.

Learned a lesson on taking the easy way out, too. Missed the Fang due to confusion with another description and the fact that it didn't seem to be in the right place. Ended up on a 5.7 or 5.8 dihedral (best guess, Midway) and belayed at a terrible stance w/ a rusty old 1/4" bolt and a stopper (Salun and Kimball recommend this belay for another route. I certainly do not!). Then traversed way left 5.7+ to a 5.9+ crack to summit. Jun 21, 2010
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
The first pitch feels pretty similar in difficulty and style to Soft Touch (5.5) at Vedauwoo. I keep hearing that the bulge on top of the 3rd pitch is the crux, but frankly, it's a breeze compared to the rest of the pitch. The style of climbing (hands and big hands jamming) is much much more secure than the fingerlocks and dicey feet that lead to it. Jun 20, 2010
What a great route. I felt that a 5.7 is a pretty fair grade. The first pitch is definitely old school climbing. Keep your back to the right wall for about 90% of the pitch, figure out how to heel-toe and you'll feel pretty secure. The crux pitch (3rd for us) was super nice. Well worth the hassle of the first pitch. The wall get pretty steep with a pair of prefect hand cracks.... mmmm, delicious. Sep 6, 2009
Wade Frank
Littleton, CO
Wade Frank   Littleton, CO
Did this on Saturday 7/20/2009 and thought it was a fun route, I stayed in the off-width/chimney on the first pitch, I certainly think 5.7 is a fair rating but with my lack of experience on off-width/chimney climbing the first pitch was the crux for me. The third pitch gets fun when it gets steep and the steep part of the fourth pitch was fun as well, we linked the 4th and 5th pitch.

This was my first climb in Lumpy. Jul 20, 2009
Sarah Kate
Seattle, WA
Sarah Kate   Seattle, WA
Definitely sandbagged. Only 5.7 if OWs are your passion and joy. Gets better after the first pitch. May 5, 2009
Sean Moon
Toyota Tacoma, USA
Sean Moon   Toyota Tacoma, USA
I did this route back in November...it could have been the winter storm that was blowing in on us or the fact I hadn't led in a while, but I thought the first pitch harder than 5.7. I would like to head back there in better conditions and see what I think then. Jan 29, 2009
W. Spaller
  5.7
W. Spaller  
  5.7
Compared to other Lumpy 5.7s, this route will seem very difficult. Be prepared for physical and sustained climbing all at the 5.7 grade. Nov 26, 2008
- - -
 
- - -  
 
The traverse left on fang ledge makes a STELLAR picture. Aug 3, 2008
Eric Goltz
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Goltz   Boulder, CO
 
3 stars is waaaaay off, compared to Kor's Flake, Pear Buttress, or any other high-quality moderate at Lumpy. The climbing is physical, and is not a recommended place to bring anybody green to old-school tactics. Leave the pack on the ground and carry shoes on your harness. May 10, 2007
The first pitch of this climb sucks. Awkward and as far from smooth as possible. The rest of the climb was pretty fun though, especially pitch three. Jul 31, 2006
TBlom  
Totally sweet...combined 1 and 2, just watch for rope drag. It's not a bad climb, just an out of fashion climb! Jul 2, 2006
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
 
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
 
Did this about a year ago as one of my (and my wife's) first moderate leads. Definitely pushed both of us - made the newbie mistake of trying to drag a backpack up the first pitch. This made the rest of the route total crap in my wife's eyes, but I loved it. Gillett calls the variation of P2 that goes straight up a "hand-crack", but I did it again this past weekend and found the initial portion of the crack to be very wide; does anybody know if this is the variation that he describes? Jun 23, 2006
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.8-
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.8-
I climbed this route today after doing J Crack. I concur that this is a bit of a sandbag, with the caveat that those highly skilled at crack climbing will certainly fare the best. P1 is stiffer than P1 of Werksupp in my opinion. The many flaring, shallow cracks on Osiris that parallel the deeper ones can sucker you into moving over to them, only to find not a jam nor opportunity for pro. I stayed in the offwidth and would step out left from time to time. I combined P1 and P2 to the tree, which barely reaches with a 60m rope and may require your second to climb up so you can get them on belay. You can also combine P4 and P5 with a 60m, but you will not be able to hear your belayer. Have rope tugs agreed upon beforehand. Sep 18, 2005
I definitely think Osirus deserves 3 stars. Yeah, maybe pitch one is a bit of a grunt but so is the Harding Slot on Astroman and that doesn't detract from it. While I respect your right to give this 2 stars, I fully disagree. It's staying 3 stars in my book. Sep 20, 2004
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
  5.7
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
  5.7
Did this today and inadvertently combined pitches one and two, it would have been a stretch with a 60m but luckily we had a 70m. Since I still thought I was one P1, I went straight up from the usual first belay and it seemed about 5.8. Pitch 3 was by far the best, hand jams don't get any better; pitch four was kind of a grunt.

Osiris isn't a 3 star due to the awkward natrue of P1 and P4, IMO, but it's still a great route and certainly one that I would do again. Sep 19, 2004
Robert Curtis - I did this yesterday, had fun. Although I think my partner got the best pitches (I did pitches 2 & 4). I really liked Pitch 4 above the Fang (Steep and exciting). I didn't like haulin' our gear in the first pitch (made the chimneyish sections awkward). Also on the second pitch I went up the "stepped right facing dihedral" that Gillet talks about; has anyone just gone straight up to the tree belay? What's it like done that way? Aug 22, 2004
Not really liking off-width chimney-ish thinks, I was glad not to lead the first pitch and though it was the hardest on the route. The second is also a bit stout (didn't lead that either) and the third and fourth I thought were quite reasonable. Nothing too funky, good gear, and just when you think it's going to be hard, the holds appear.

Great route, The first pitch was the most fun I've had in a wide crack. I think the people saying this is a pile are just trying to keep the crowds off it. Aug 8, 2004
bb
bb  
Tried climbing it on Sunday (7-4-04). We had the wrong route though. We were to the left of it. Much harder than Osiris. My friend said it was probably a 5.9 Jul 13, 2004
Did it Saturday. Had perfect weather and really liked it. Maybe I'm just used to Lumpy adversity. Sep 29, 2003
Crusty  
Clean chimney, quality thrutching, finger cracks, hand cracks, stepping off the fang, a bigger 5.7 than the left book routes, it deserves at least two stars. Great intro to the steeper Lumpy routes. Left Book is quality, too, though. Stephan, I think you are afraid to stick your body parts into those cracks. There's only the occasional rabid critter in there, you'll be fine, just go! xoxoxo -c May 29, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Aw, c'mon, how many sport routes have cool butt seats like in Scott Conner's photo? That alone is worth one star! May 29, 2003
OK, at the risk of getting hammered by my Estes Park buddies, I am going out on a limb here...

This route is....and always has been a worm driving pile of crap. There I said it! I don't know why it gets any stars! If you want to climb a route in this grade range avoid this one like the plague and head straight over to the Left Book.

But I am a sport climbing weenie! May 29, 2003
Nate Christiansen  
  5.7+
Either I really suck at chimneys, which I probably do, or the first pitch of Osiris is way underrated. I always have a terrible time with this first pitch. Because of that, I do the first long pitch of George's Tree. The climbing is more difficult, sustained 5.9, but it's more positive than Osiris's first pitch IMO. Feb 12, 2003
Ben Mottinger

  5.7+
Ben Mottinger    
  5.7+
I think there are better 5.7s out there. YMMV. Oct 8, 2002
'Osiris' was my introduction to 'The Book'. It's awesome and I suggest it. It accepts terrific gear. Oct 7, 2002
As if this route needs any more comments...oh well, I'm bored. I've done the first pitch two different ways: one is pure chimney style--which feels very hard for 5.6, and not to mention long, two is face climbing--which makes this much more enjoyable. There are a couple sections where you just have to do some chimney action (the first bulge 20 ft off the ground) to keep this ticked in at 5.6, but these arent bad. climbing the face to the left of the chimney feels 6ish, and is never desperate. The easiest line took me farther left (5-8 ft off the crack) than I wanted to be, and gear was sometimes a stretch to place (deep in the chimney at times), but was never really a problem. Save a couple larger pieces for the belay--3 to 4 FR or equivalent hexes work perfect. The third pitch is superb!! Fairly sustained, but with good rests between the tough sections, and always well-protected. The easiest line for me seemed to follow the cracks to the right of the RF dihedral. This pitch eats medium stoppers--doubles are nice. the "headwall" above is truly excellent, and not too hard. One can layback, jam, and stem the double cracks thru this section--the jams are sinker. P4 is interesting. Getting on top of the fang is a little funky, but the moves off the fang for the next 15 ft. are downright weird! The protection is just alright, and everything seems to be loose and sketchy. My partner and I thought this was harder (pychological, mostly) then the 5.7 bulge above, and definitely less straightforward. RE: this bulge, Gillett says it's a "bulge with a wide crack, 5.7"--its not really wide, you can sink great handjams, and the moves are sick!! very fun. This is a fine climb with two long pitches--the third pitch should not be missed! If you have a bad experience with the first pitch (which has definite potential for being a hell-raiser, although I enjoyed it), I could see how you could loathe the rest of the route. Oct 2, 2002
My first Lumpy climb!! It was a weird climb for the first 2 pitches in that I was not used to offwidth techniques felt very strenous for 5.7, pitch 3 next to the right facing corner and up and over the bulge was a lot of fun, my favorite. The pitch from the fang was steep, I had to switch cracks a couple of times which was fun. That being said I don't think I would ever climb this again, but I am glad to have done it. Sep 24, 2002
Great climb! As someone else has noted, pitch two can be stretched out another 30 feet or so above the ledge with the tree. Continue up and left to a small (but decent) ledge at the base of the right facing corner, start p3 from here.

Also, we were a bit confused about where the route goes at the start of pitch 4. We ended up going pretty much straight up some short steep cracks, and there is no way that it was 5.7 climbing (seemed much harder than anything we did on the first 3 pitches). Looking at a topo after the fact it seems like we were closer to George's Tree than Osiris. Some folks told us we needed to work a bit further to the left after topping out on pitch 3. Anybody got some advice on this section? Sep 16, 2002
Smas  
Osiris is the first route I did at Lumpy, and I thought it was great. Accidentally linked the first two pitches looking for a ledge with a "tree"(the correct ledge doesn't have one). Just barely made it with a 60. Also linked the last two to make it a three pitch climb. The best part is definitely the two cruxes over the bulges on pitches 2 and 3, not really hard but committing for a 5.7. There is a really easy walk off described in Rossiter's guidebook: walk straight off the back of the summit over a slab and into a saddle, then follow the obvious trail to the right down to the Twin Owls trailhead. It is really easy and doesn't even have any 4th class! Don't take it if you stashed gear at the base though because you end up almost at the parking lot. Aug 11, 2002
The tree belay ledge at the end of the normal second pitch is just over 195 feet off the ground. So when you get up to it and the rain pours in on you, you can escape with two 60m ropes and rap to the ground. If you only had one rope or two 50m ropes you should be able to rap to the first belay ledge and then rap again to the anchors for Georges Tree route below and to the right of the first belay ledge. Jun 25, 2002
About the descent: we went SE and found a clear trail. No downclimbing, no steep gullies, no hassles. 35 minutes back to the car (without returning to base of climb)

We climbed it on a beautiful Sat AM with no people -- just get there early. May 18, 2002
Ben Mottinger

  5.7+
Ben Mottinger    
  5.7+
I think a lot of the discussion on the "quality" of this route has to do with what type of routes people prefer. I personally like a clean crack on a face or in a dihedral, and a lot of the climbing on Osiris is not that clean. Sorry to add yet another comment on this topic. May 13, 2002
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
Pitch lengths/discussion: P1 is about 150 feet to the ledge. P2 should be led long, past the tree and up the ramps to the nice stance just below the big RF dihedral. This gets you to The Fang in about 150 feet again. You can link P4 and P5 (it makes the most sense) at about 164.5 feet.

FWIW, I'd give this route 1.5 stars in my book. May 9, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
As an example of what Tony is talking about: my friend loathed the offwidth (!!) on P1. From there on out the climb was "of a lessor" quality in his eyes... Apr 24, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
I think the route is a little odd. I've done it twice, and even rescued someone off of it once. In any case, it flares in spots, it has some less-than perfect rock, and route finding can be less than obvious.

At its grade, it tends to be a Lumpy-Intro for a lot of less experienced climbers. I can understand why its grade and quality would thus be a topic of much debate.

Personally, I'd give it 1-2 *'s because it can't hold a candle to Turnkorner, Romulan Territory, J-Crack or Pear Buttress. Apr 24, 2002
Are you sure you all were on the right route?? Osiris is one of the classics in Colorado! The first pitch is definately the best--but, there is so much to this climb...slab, crack, offwidth (I know, sounds crazy, but I enjoy them, great belays at almost every pitch! Avoid it on the weekends. Mar 15, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
Indeed, a great tour of Lumpy offerings - grunty chimney, thought provoking crack...and did anyone else throw a sling around the Fang and belay off that unique feature (never forget when I came over the lip on the third pitch after the cracks - my partner Sean had lead and was riding the Fang like a bucking bronco - it necessitated a photo)? Sep 24, 2001
Fun route. There's no tree on the first belay ledge. Pitches 1 and 4 are hard with a pack on. Easy to combine P4&5 with a 60-m rope. Sep 23, 2001
It's actually not a bad route, I just didn't have much fun on it. Maybe I was having a weird day. Also there was the time (on pitch 3 I think) that for some reason I didn't realize you could use two of the flared cracks at once, and had been climbing only one of them, making it feel quite hard for 5.7. If I were to recommend a nice big 5.7 though, it would be Kor's Flake without a doubt. Ok enough babbling from me for now. Aug 18, 2001
Damn, dude, go easy on that little girl! I found Osiris to be excellent - a perfectly typical Lumpy route at a moderate grade, and therefore not for everyone. Lacking only some runout, I think this route is a perfect intro to the first-class climbing experience that is Lumpy Ridge.

Rossiter's guidebook attributes the FA to Dave Johnson and Pete Robinson in 1964. Aug 16, 2001
I've heard fairly mixed reviews of this route also. Some people love it, some well, think it sucks. I did it a long time ago, and didn't like it very well. Aug 16, 2001
Matt Bauman  
 
The first pitch is ok, the rest of the pitches besides the short 2nd pitch are fun, moderate and exciting...... I think you were off route dude or you only enjoy chimney/offwidth and the famous Lumpy slabby crack climbing is not for you...... it's a great introduction to the Lumpy style of climbing.....very popular so I'd avoid it unless you get there in the winter (I did it early February) or during the week. Aug 16, 2001
This route sucks. I had to bail off of the first pitch last year and came back for vengance a few weeks ago. The best part of the climb is definitely the first pitch, if you stay out of the chimney. Other than that, the route doesn't deserve a single star. Aug 16, 2001
Brice W  
Fun climb! It does seem fairly sustained, but the protection was excellent, which is always nice. The fact that I wasn't feeling too strong that day and that it was my first time climbing the route led me to fire in pieces every two or three feet in places. The downclimb is easy to find if you follow the description in the guidebook, but it seemed harder to us in spots than 4th class. Aug 1, 2001
This is a great route to collect booty gear on. Not a recommended route when hung-over. Jul 10, 2001