Type: Trad, Grade II
FA: Randy Farris & client, 1980s
Page Views: 2,672 total · 12/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Sep 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is an excellent finish to climbs on the right side of the Book. It is a harder, parallel version of Cheap Date, although not quite as good as that route. Pick any route that leads up to the Cave area--especially fitting would be a route such as Howling at the Wind or the headwall pitch of J-Crack. The route starts in the same place as Cheap Date, just left of the bottom of the square-cut inset that harbors the Cave Exit. The first 30 or so feet are shared with Cheap Date, linking thin, exciting, left-trending 5.9 cracks. There is a good stance where Cheap Date splits left; Final Chapter continues straight up. The first ascentionist apparently thought this was the crux, but we both felt it was the top part of the crack (good 2 or 2.5 friend, and small nuts above that to sew it up). It's possible to step right just before this section into an easy chimney with a very loose block.

The route is rated 5.11a, but I should mention that it felt harder to me than any other 5.11 I've done at Lumpy (including Howling at the Wind and Living Dead, both .11b, and Stretch Marks and Little Twin Owls' Finger Crack, .11a).

From the ledge atop this pitch, either scramble carefully off right (rope?) and join the standard descent from the Cave Exit. Or, continue to the summit, via moderate terrain or the excellent 5.10c final pitch of Outlander, about 10-15 feet left.

Protection

Bring a full set of RPs, HBs, or equivalent tiny stoppers. Otherwise, gear to a #2.5 Friend.

Photos