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Routes in Little Twin Owls

Angry Man V7-8 7B
Arete T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Clingon V3 6A
Finger Crack T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws V3 6A
Knee Catcher T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One-move Wonder V0 4
Pat's Slab V2 5+
Tooth Arete V0 4
Tooth Slab V-easy 3
Trade Problem V-easy 3
Undercling Right T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,480 total, 36/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

The obvious, overhanging finger crack on the narrow south face. It is very continuous on excellent jams; it is often top-roped.

Protection

Large quantities of medium stoppers and TCUs; a #3 Camalot is helpful up high.
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
9+. May 12, 2016
Butter Mcbiscuit
Estes Park, CO
Butter Mcbiscuit   Estes Park, CO
10+. Jul 20, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Super good. The locks are bomber. Almost had the onsight. Felt a bit more stressful but also shorter and some good rests then the 1st pitch on the Naked Edge which we also did on our last trip. 11a isn't completely unreasonable for this pitch. Brilliant finger crack. Aug 22, 2011
I watched Earl Wiggins make the first ascent of this, onsight, EBs, stoppers, and made it look like a 5.8 hand crack, a true 'on the Earl'. Mar 29, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Ropeless and stoppers! Hardcore! ;) Sep 2, 2010
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
I have some friends in town that have done this ropeless, sometimes in flip flops, and with only stoppers.... Sep 2, 2010
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
I saw a video of Steph Davis "WALKING" this climb (maybe the small fingers help :-). Sep 2, 2010
Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
I told you it was hard Ian, you didn't believe me!

Anyway, my sending rack for this thing consisted of...

3 blue TCUs
4 yellow TCUs
2 orange TCUs
1 red TCU
a few stoppers.

That's all you need! Sep 1, 2010
Ian
Boulder, CO
5.11c
Ian   Boulder, CO
5.11c
Possibly the hardest 5.11a at Lumpy. Jul 26, 2009
Hey GUY? Two sets of cams? Jul 21, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11c/d
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11c/d
The finger crack deep in the dihedral is a "splitter" for Lumpy, but the dihedral around the crack is very flaring. It is tough to get your mitts in there and utilize any good finger jams. Definitely a sandbag at 5.11a....

You could place gear every foot, so there is no reason not to give it a try on lead. Bring 2 sets of cams to #1 Camalot, with a #2 and #3 to protect the final roof and slab moves. Extra cams around a green/yellow Alien would be helpful.
Apr 21, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
I tried to lead this about a month ago and was soundly rebuffed. Awkward jams and super pumpy. Classic Lumpy! Nov 6, 2006
Bob Rotert  
 
Some folks probably won't like this route, or think it's classic, because it is flaring, awkward, greasy and a bit painful...

Did I scare you away?!

I gave it four stars, because I think it is a trad classic & typical for Lumpy. This route definitely should be done on lead to get the full Monty!!! It's 50 yds from the "old" Lumpy parking lot, so it is a great end of the day burn or harsh out of the car warm up. Long ago dubbed an 11a finger crack by a personal friend and bad ass climber named Earl Wiggins, who may have done the first free lead & legend has it, at one point third classed this route back in the early 70s.

Truth be told, the only way someone might think this flaring crack is 11a is if they eat finger cracks for breakfast or they top rope it. Which is how many folks do this flaring 70s test piece. I thought it had 3 distinct cruxes. Since its only about 30 feet long that probably makes the whole thing a crux. Can you say sustained?!? Lead it clean, placing gear, on sight, & you too can call it 11a....

If you're a sandbagger!!...;o) Sep 7, 2006
I agree with the 11a rating (easy to say in hindsight after taking about 3 different occasions to lead it clean), but it can feel harder if you over protect as I originally did. Move quick to beat the pump. Awesome finger locks, great route. Jul 25, 2006
Brian Weinstein
  5.11+
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11+
From the ground it looks like the angle may ease up and there may be some rests. Neither is true. Sustained, pumpy, and extremely greasy. Small Aliens and TCUs work, fiddling with stoppers burned me. 11+, 2-star. Jun 22, 2006
Oh, how soon we forget... Welcome to Lumpy "Sandbag" Ridge. Apr 6, 2004
I led, as an onsight, the 5.11 pitch on Country Club in Bouder Canyon 3 days before I made an onsight attempt at this crack.

If the 2nd pitch of Country Club is gold standard 11a then Little Twin Owls Finger Crack feels like 11c (on the sharp end). I had to bear down and fight for just about every move. Luckily, there is a good shake half way up.

As a lead, this route packs a deceptive punch for its apparent diminutive size. It should be on every aspiring tradsters tick list. Aug 28, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.11c
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.11c
This is more like .11c on lead, very continuous and endurance oriented. Jan 1, 2001