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Little Twin Owls Climbing
Routes in Little Twin Owls
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Angry Man V8 7B |
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Arete T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Clingon V3 6A |
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Finger Crack T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jaws V3 6A |
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Knee Catcher T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Melancholy Whale V8 7B |
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One-move Wonder V0 4 |
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Pat's Slab V2 5+ |
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Right Angry Man V10 7C+ |
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Tooth Arete V0 4 |
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Tooth Slab V-easy 3 |
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Trade Problem V-easy 3 |
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Undercling Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| GPS: |
40.40266, -105.52391 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 30,329 total · 111/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Great toproping (or leading) a couple minutes west of the old Twin Owls parking lot. Now, it lies probably 0.8 miles from the new trailhead. To set up topropes, scramble around either side to the back, and follow your nose to a short chimney between the two little owls, each of which sports a set of bolts. I find scrambling around to the right a bit easiser; both ways are fifth class, so don't do anything stupid. All the routes are worthwhile, with the "Finger Crack" being the most...memorable.
Getting There
From the new parking lot, head west towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.8 miles. Once at the old Twin Owls parking lot, this small crag is just to the west split by a wide crack on its southeast face. Expect ~15-20 minutes.
Per Dom R: a detailed description from the old parking lot (just past the NPS housing) - continue hiking on the Black Canyon trail, follow Batman Rock trail briefly, and go right at a split to the Tooth and Jaws Boulders and the base of Little Twin Owls. For boulderers seeking Angry Man, just after you turn onto the Batman Rock trail is an old park service sign. Follow an old trail uphill for a few minutes into a rocky area.
Per Dom R: a detailed description from the old parking lot (just past the NPS housing) - continue hiking on the Black Canyon trail, follow Batman Rock trail briefly, and go right at a split to the Tooth and Jaws Boulders and the base of Little Twin Owls. For boulderers seeking Angry Man, just after you turn onto the Batman Rock trail is an old park service sign. Follow an old trail uphill for a few minutes into a rocky area.
Classic Climbing Routes at Little Twin Owls
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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