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Routes in Little Twin Owls

Angry Man V7-8 7B
Arete T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Clingon V3 6A
Finger Crack T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws V3 6A
Knee Catcher T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One-move Wonder V0 4
Pat's Slab V2 5+
Tooth Arete V0 4
Tooth Slab V-easy 3
Trade Problem V-easy 3
Undercling Right T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:


Great toproping (or leading) a couple minutes west of the old Twin Owls parking lot. Now, it lies probably 0.8 miles from the new trailhead. To set up topropes, scramble around either side to the back, and follow your nose to a short chimney between the two little owls, each of which sports a set of bolts. I find scrambling around to the right a bit easiser; both ways are fifth class, so don't do anything stupid. All the routes are worthwhile, with the "Finger Crack" being the most...memorable.
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Getting There

From the new parking lot, head west towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.8 miles. Once at the old Twin Owls parking lot, this small crag is just to the west split by a wide crack on its southeast face. Expect ~15-20 minutes.

Per Dom R: a detailed description from the old parking lot (just past the NPS housing) - continue hiking on the Black Canyon trail, follow Batman Rock trail briefly, and go right at a split to the Tooth and Jaws Boulders and the base of Little Twin Owls. For boulderers seeking Angry Man, just after you turn onto the Batman Rock trail is an old park service sign. Follow an old trail uphill for a few minutes into a rocky area.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Twin Owls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
A little more descriptive set of directions would be to hike from the new parking to the old one (now just kind of looks like a dirt road with NPS housing areas to your right) and continue hiking on the Black Canyon trail until you get to the Batman Rock trail. Follow that a short ways until the trail split, and there's a sign for Batman and Checkboard Rock pointing left. Go right at this split. Follow this trail a short ways and it spits you out right at the tooth and jaws Boulders and the base of Knee Catcher on Little Twin Owls. If you are looking to go to Angry Man, just after you turn onto the Batman Rock trail, a short ways up trail on your right will be an old park service sign with (as of Sept. 2016) nothing on it. There is an old trail right next to this sign. Follow that uphill for a few minutes, and as you enter into a rocky area, you'll be able to spot Angry Man on your left through some trees. I just kind of bushwhacked over there from here and could find no real trail to the boulder. The boulder isn't super easy to spot from the trail, but if you look at a few pictures of it and know what you're looking for, you'll see the bright white chalk spots on it through the trees. Sep 6, 2016
Mike Pharris
Longmont, CO
Mike Pharris   Longmont, CO
As of 9/13/09 the right hand summit - at the top of the zig zag crack route - only has one chain/bolt. There's one empty hole and one hole that's been cemented over. The rock up there has a bit of a hollow ring to it as well. We couldn't find any real way to back up the chains. Climber beware.

There are two chains on the left hand side - at the top of Knee Catcher. Sep 15, 2009

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