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Routes in Little Twin Owls

Angry Man V7-8 7B
Arete T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Clingon V3 6A
Finger Crack T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jaws V3 6A
Knee Catcher T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One-move Wonder V0 4
Pat's Slab V2 5+
Tooth Arete V0 4
Tooth Slab V-easy 3
Trade Problem V-easy 3
Undercling Right T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,602 total · 8/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

The zig-zag crack just right of the obvious wide crack, on the north little Owl. Undercling and jam from the ground at 5.9, or step in higher up off of a ramp at a 5.8 thin crack. A good little route.

[Eds. Interestingly, there are 3 ways to do this route. S. Kimball's guide describes a 5.8 version which starts on Knee Catcher. R. Rossiter's guide describes this as Flake, 5.8+. He also describes starting with a thin seam (challenging) on the right. B. Gillett's guide describes starting up the awkward zig-zag crack as 5.9+.]

Protection

Bring a light standard rack to a #2 Friend.

Photos

Felt about as hard as the ArĂȘte hahah, still only one bolt up there, set a TR solo redirected with a clove on the single bolt...definitely not ideal. Aug 9, 2013
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
If you do the full three-segment zigzag on this route, the lowest 10m are solid 5.9/9+. Poor feet and the angle of the cracks makes for insecure holds. The angles also make passive protection difficult. Mar 26, 2012
Brandon Glanton
Estes Park, CO
Brandon Glanton   Estes Park, CO
Beautiful climb if taking the Zig Zag route, highly recommended. Be sure to use long draws for the Zig Zag. Anchors still not repaired as of June 3, 2010. Jun 4, 2010
Mike Pharris
Longmont, CO
Mike Pharris   Longmont, CO
As of 9/13/09 the right hand summit - at the top of the zig zag crack route - only has one chain/bolt. There's one empty hole and one hole that's been cemented over. The rock up there has a bit of a hollow ring to it as well. We couldn't find any real way to back up the chains. Climber beware.

There are two chains on the left hand side - at the top of Knee Catcher. Sep 15, 2009