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Routes in Little Twin Owls
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Angry Man V8 7B |
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Arete T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Clingon V3 6A |
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Finger Crack T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jaws V3 6A |
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Knee Catcher T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Melancholy Whale V8 7B |
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One-move Wonder V0+ 4+ |
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Pat's Slab V2 5+ |
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Right Angry Man V10 7C+ |
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Tooth Arete V0 4 |
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Tooth Slab V0 4 |
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Trade Problem V0 4 |
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Undercling Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Boulder, 10 ft (3 m) |
| FA: | Jim Belcer, Fall of 1994 |
| Page Views: | 145 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Patrick on Mar 23, 2023 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is short, sharp, steep, and technical, so it's pretty classic for Lumpy. It has good stone, cool holds, and a nice position facing the Estes Valley. If you've got the skin for it, it's a great problem.
Start seated on the right side on techy, sloper things with your foot on the large edge underneath. Make tensiony moves through the roof on crimps, and then move up the left hand side of the boulder. The topout may strike you as tenuous - I thought it was better value to avoid touching the other rocks up there and just use the Melancholy Whale Boulder to top out. I showed Jim the video, and he confirmed that's the beta.
This is rarely done. Known ascents as of Spring 2023 (29 years after FA!) are: Jim Belcer, Dean Potter, (another guy who's name I forgot - sorry!), and SF.
Come do it! It's quite good! This is probably not too terribly sandbagged.
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