Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: S. Hickman & J. Bryant, 1964. FFA (headwall): Mike Caldwell. Billy Westbay and Dan McClure, 1973? D. McClure, M. Covington, B. Westbay, 1975 (from Ros
Page Views: 30,391 total · 134/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Peregrine nesting closure - through 7/31/20 Details
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is probably the most travelled route at Lumpy Ridge and one of the best finger cracks anywhere, unless you're a snob when it comes to flared cracks ;>). The crack, a backwards J, is barely visible on the right side of the Book as you hike in. Follow the trail to the Book, bearing right at the end. The route starts in a broken, left-facing, right-leaning corner system just right of the clean flakes that mark Pear Buttress and Loose Ends.

P1. Climb the easy corner to a good ledge, right of the bottom of the "J" (5.4 to 5.7 depending on the exact line). Alternatively, do the first pitch of Loose Ends, and belay just below the standard ledge on that route. A further alternative for those climbing 5.10 is to lead to The Cavity, a single-pitch route just to the right, up to the first belay ledge on J-Crack.

P2. Climb a short ways up a dihedral, then traverse left into the barely visible bottom of the J. Climb the crack to a belay on lower-angle rock at a pod about 30 feet below a steep headwall (5.9, long pitch). If you started on Loose Ends, then you'll traverse up right into the J past a piton and a bolt, somewhat spicy 5.10.

P3. Several alternatives:
a) climb straight up the crack through the headwall at 5.11c. The gear is excellent but very strenuous to place. This is great climbing, although much harder than anything else on the route; as such, most parties opt for one of the other options to keep the grade consistent.
b) climb up to a point about 15 feet below the headwall and traverse across a slab (5.9) to the crack system on the left (Visual Aids), then follow that to a belay.
c) climb up to the headwall, place pro, and traverse straight right (5.10a) to a ledge/ramp, and follow that back left to a belay. This traverse can also be made lower on slightly better holds (5.9).

Be sure to keep your second in mind if traversing in either direction and backclean appropriately. If you're worried, double ropes also help on this pitch to maximize protection for the leader and follower. Aiding the headwall to avoid the traverse has become increasingly popular as of 2019.

P4. From "a" or "c", head up right to a break in the overhang, and climb through it to easy ground (5.7). Alternatively, head up and left to the "cave" and chose an exit, Cheap Date being thematically the most compelling. From "b" continue with an easy pitch to the cave area and choose an exit.

Protection

A standard rack with extra medium stoppers to sew it up; RPs if doing the 5.11.

Photos