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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area
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Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hurley Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hurley Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Right Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | S. Hickman & J. Bryant, 1964. FFA (headwall): Mike Caldwell. Billy Westbay and Dan McClure, 1973? D. McClure, M. Covington, B. Westbay, 1975 (from Ros |
| Page Views: | 35,244 total · 126/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is probably the most travelled route at Lumpy Ridge and one of the best finger cracks anywhere, unless you're a snob when it comes to flared cracks ;>). The crack, a backwards J, is barely visible on the right side of the Book as you hike in. Follow the trail to the Book, bearing right at the end. The route starts in a broken, left-facing, right-leaning corner system just right of the clean flakes that mark Pear Buttress and Loose Ends.
P1. Climb the easy corner to a good ledge, right of the bottom of the "J" (5.4 to 5.7 depending on the exact line). Alternatively, do the first pitch of Loose Ends, and belay just below the standard ledge on that route. A further alternative for those climbing 5.10 is to lead to The Cavity, a single-pitch route just to the right, up to the first belay ledge on J-Crack.
P2. Climb a short ways up a dihedral, then traverse left into the barely visible bottom of the J. Climb the crack to a belay on lower-angle rock at a pod about 30 feet below a steep headwall (5.9, long pitch). If you started on Loose Ends, then you'll traverse up right into the J past a piton and a bolt, somewhat spicy 5.10.
P3. Several alternatives:
a) climb straight up the crack through the headwall at 5.11c. The gear is excellent but very strenuous to place. This is great climbing, although much harder than anything else on the route; as such, most parties opt for one of the other options to keep the grade consistent.
b) climb up to a point about 15 feet below the headwall and traverse across a slab (5.9) to the crack system on the left (Visual Aids), then follow that to a belay.
c) climb up to the headwall, place pro, and traverse straight right (5.10a) to a ledge/ramp, and follow that back left to a belay. This traverse can also be made lower on slightly better holds (5.9).
Be sure to keep your second in mind if traversing in either direction and backclean appropriately. If you're worried, double ropes also help on this pitch to maximize protection for the leader and follower. Aiding the headwall to avoid the traverse has become increasingly popular as of 2019.
P4. From "a" or "c", head up right to a break in the overhang, and climb through it to easy ground (5.7). Alternatively, head up and left to the "cave" and chose an exit, Cheap Date being thematically the most compelling. From "b" continue with an easy pitch to the cave area and choose an exit.
P1. Climb the easy corner to a good ledge, right of the bottom of the "J" (5.4 to 5.7 depending on the exact line). Alternatively, do the first pitch of Loose Ends, and belay just below the standard ledge on that route. A further alternative for those climbing 5.10 is to lead to The Cavity, a single-pitch route just to the right, up to the first belay ledge on J-Crack.
P2. Climb a short ways up a dihedral, then traverse left into the barely visible bottom of the J. Climb the crack to a belay on lower-angle rock at a pod about 30 feet below a steep headwall (5.9, long pitch). If you started on Loose Ends, then you'll traverse up right into the J past a piton and a bolt, somewhat spicy 5.10.
P3. Several alternatives:
a) climb straight up the crack through the headwall at 5.11c. The gear is excellent but very strenuous to place. This is great climbing, although much harder than anything else on the route; as such, most parties opt for one of the other options to keep the grade consistent.
b) climb up to a point about 15 feet below the headwall and traverse across a slab (5.9) to the crack system on the left (Visual Aids), then follow that to a belay.
c) climb up to the headwall, place pro, and traverse straight right (5.10a) to a ledge/ramp, and follow that back left to a belay. This traverse can also be made lower on slightly better holds (5.9).
Be sure to keep your second in mind if traversing in either direction and backclean appropriately. If you're worried, double ropes also help on this pitch to maximize protection for the leader and follower. Aiding the headwall to avoid the traverse has become increasingly popular as of 2019.
P4. From "a" or "c", head up right to a break in the overhang, and climb through it to easy ground (5.7). Alternatively, head up and left to the "cave" and chose an exit, Cheap Date being thematically the most compelling. From "b" continue with an easy pitch to the cave area and choose an exit.
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