Avg: 3.6 from 275 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||S. Hickman & J. Bryant, 1964. FFA (headwall): Mike Caldwell. Billy Westbay and Dan McClure, 1973? D. McClure, M. Covington, B. Westbay, 1975 (from Ros|
|Page Views:||30,391 total · 134/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
P1. Climb the easy corner to a good ledge, right of the bottom of the "J" (5.4 to 5.7 depending on the exact line). Alternatively, do the first pitch of Loose Ends, and belay just below the standard ledge on that route. A further alternative for those climbing 5.10 is to lead to The Cavity, a single-pitch route just to the right, up to the first belay ledge on J-Crack.
P2. Climb a short ways up a dihedral, then traverse left into the barely visible bottom of the J. Climb the crack to a belay on lower-angle rock at a pod about 30 feet below a steep headwall (5.9, long pitch). If you started on Loose Ends, then you'll traverse up right into the J past a piton and a bolt, somewhat spicy 5.10.
P3. Several alternatives:
a) climb straight up the crack through the headwall at 5.11c. The gear is excellent but very strenuous to place. This is great climbing, although much harder than anything else on the route; as such, most parties opt for one of the other options to keep the grade consistent.
b) climb up to a point about 15 feet below the headwall and traverse across a slab (5.9) to the crack system on the left (Visual Aids), then follow that to a belay.
c) climb up to the headwall, place pro, and traverse straight right (5.10a) to a ledge/ramp, and follow that back left to a belay. This traverse can also be made lower on slightly better holds (5.9).
Be sure to keep your second in mind if traversing in either direction and backclean appropriately. If you're worried, double ropes also help on this pitch to maximize protection for the leader and follower. Aiding the headwall to avoid the traverse has become increasingly popular as of 2019.
P4. From "a" or "c", head up right to a break in the overhang, and climb through it to easy ground (5.7). Alternatively, head up and left to the "cave" and chose an exit, Cheap Date being thematically the most compelling. From "b" continue with an easy pitch to the cave area and choose an exit.