Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Douglas Snively?
Page Views: 2,331 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jim McGuire on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

As the only moderate offering on the right side of the Book, this is a great route especially if you want to sneak in a quick climb with rapid escape options. Large overhangs guard the lower part of the wall right of the Mission Impossible dihedral. This route follows a crack system through the only reasonable (for mere mortals anyway), break through the overhangs, just right of Fascist Drill in the West.

Start up a pair of cracks and angle right through the overhang at a finger crack (crux, 5.7+). Continue up the nice, steep 5.6 handcrack above to a stance next to a small tree on the right. It is possible to rap off to the right here at the tree or continue up the lower angled and ever-widening crack above to where it turns into a chimney.

Descend to the right, eastward.

This is a long 150+ foot pitch and protects very well.

Protection

Standard rack with extra larger pieces for the top half of the route.

Photos