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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area

Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jason Seaver, Nate A., 3/20/05
Page Views: 102 total, 1/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Mar 19, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is the furthest East (right) route on The Book proper. Right of Fascist Drill In The West is The Campground route, and right again is Alien Algorithm (see description on this site). Our new little pitch starts right of Alien Algorithm, crosses it at its lone bolt, then it goes left through the obvious roof / bulge.

Start 15' right of Alien Algorithim in a left-leaning crack, just right of a big tree. Climb the crack to where some hard moves up and right allow access to another thin, left-leaning crack. Continue with more hard climbing to where you can pull out left to the foot ledge on top of Alien Algorithm's first roof. Clip the bolt on AA (newly replaced w/ 2 1/2" x 3/8" stainless steel bolt) and work out left under the roof to where some holds and a fixed wire lead over the bulge. Continue up a slabby arĂȘte to a slung horn anchor.

This pitch was established headpoint style over three partial days, the first of which was spent falling, hanging, and aiding on ground-up attempts. Nate and I eventually both led it placing all the gear except the fixed wire. The fixed wire is fixed only because we couldn't get it out; it was placed free on the lead. All the hard climbing is well-protected, but the 5.9ish arĂȘte above the roof is runout. This is pretty high quality and super fun climbing.

Protection

Bring a light rack up to a red Camalot (although a gold can be used at the start). One bolt and one wire (currently) are fixed. Slung horn lower-off anchor at the top.

Photos

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