Type: Trad
FA: FA: ?
Page Views: 1,720 total · 7/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on May 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Peregrine nesting closure - through 7/31/20 Details
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This fun, short route begins near Thindependence and Pear Buttress and ascends flawless rock. The start is somewhat hard to find. Walk to the Book, and go left just before the rock where the trail branches. Hike up around a small pinnacle and head back right toward the massive, overhanging Howling at the Wind Dihedral. Then, scramble down a short gully (between the pinnacle and the main rock) that cliffs out at a low-angle slab. The route begins just right of the arete or prow formed by the extension of the Howling Dihedral's right wall. It is just [left] of Stretch Marks and Thindependence. One can also scramble up from the start to Pear Buttress area routes; follow your nose.

The route follows a thin corner just right of the prow. The crux, 30 feet up, is protected by shallow, RP-sized placements--if these fail, you'd deck. The pitch remains interesting and about 5.8; climb up and pass through a short slot. Just above the slot one can prepare a rappel west from a horn (50 meter rope). Other options: continue straight up into P2 of Pear Buttress (possibly finding fixed rappel anchors atop the route Toot after about 30 feet); or, ten feet above the slot, one can traverse right down a sloping ramp to the second pitches of Loose Ends and Visual Aids.

Protection

If you don't have RPs or an equivalent, consider this X-rated. A light standard rack up to a #2 Friend should otherwise suffice.

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