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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area

Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: FA: ?
Page Views: 1,335 total, 7/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on May 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This fun, short route begins near Thindependence and Pear Buttress and ascends flawless rock. The start is somewhat hard to find. Walk to the Book, and go left just before the rock where the trail branches. Hike up around a small pinnacle and head back right toward the massive, overhanging Howling at the Wind Dihedral. Then, scramble down a short gully (between the pinnacle and the main rock) that cliffs out at a low-angle slab. The route begins just right of the arete or prow formed by the extension of the Howling Dihedral's right wall. It is just [left] of Stretch Marks and Thindependence. One can also scramble up from the start to Pear Buttress area routes; follow your nose.

The route follows a thin corner just right of the prow. The crux, 30 feet up, is protected by shallow, RP-sized placements--if these fail, you'd deck. The pitch remains interesting and about 5.8; climb up and pass through a short slot. Just above the slot one can prepare a rappel west from a horn (50 meter rope). Other options: continue straight up into P2 of Pear Buttress (possibly finding fixed rappel anchors atop the route Toot after about 30 feet); or, ten feet above the slot, one can traverse right down a sloping ramp to the second pitches of Loose Ends and Visual Aids.

Protection

If you don't have RPs or an equivalent, consider this X-rated. A light standard rack up to a #2 Friend should otherwise suffice.

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Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
 
Not an X, a bomber #8 stopper protects the first crux, then a #0.3 BD or a Wild Country zero (blue) protects the next crux. The rest is 5.8, and a small light rack works fine. Rap/belay from a piton and fixed nut, the nut slides out but is BOMBER. If you do this route in a single pitch, bring a 70m or tie a knot and rappel/lower as far as you can, then swing/run/jump right to a big ledge and walk off. Sep 12, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
A great climb with better gear and moves than it appears. Witha 70M rope you can get to the pin and stopper belay on Pear Buttress and then rap or lower (with some caution), to a high point on the ground to climber's left. Jul 4, 2008
Thinstone follows the thin crack, but does it finish off with the crack in the diherdral or the slab crack? I did place some good pro in the dihedral crack, but didn't know the official route. I'm stupid like that. Anyone know? Feb 4, 2003
I followed Charles on this one day and thought it was pretty spicy. 9+ with a dab of habanero sauce. The RP(s) may be good, but if you're not a 5.10 leader and skilled w/ placing them, it could be dangerous. Sep 15, 2002
What's wrong with RPs? They are fat! This climbs getting a bad RaP...only moderate 5.9 certainly not X! not even S...excellent moves. Sep 15, 2002
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
I pity the 5.9 leader who wanders up this thing. The crux is hard and steep and offers only RPs. It is a great short pitch, but be ready for the techy stuff. Feb 25, 2002