Type: Trad
FA: FA: ?
Page Views: 1,406 total · 7/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on May 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This fun, short route begins near Thindependence and Pear Buttress and ascends flawless rock. The start is somewhat hard to find. Walk to the Book, and go left just before the rock where the trail branches. Hike up around a small pinnacle and head back right toward the massive, overhanging Howling at the Wind Dihedral. Then, scramble down a short gully (between the pinnacle and the main rock) that cliffs out at a low-angle slab. The route begins just right of the arete or prow formed by the extension of the Howling Dihedral's right wall. It is just [left] of Stretch Marks and Thindependence. One can also scramble up from the start to Pear Buttress area routes; follow your nose.

The route follows a thin corner just right of the prow. The crux, 30 feet up, is protected by shallow, RP-sized placements--if these fail, you'd deck. The pitch remains interesting and about 5.8; climb up and pass through a short slot. Just above the slot one can prepare a rappel west from a horn (50 meter rope). Other options: continue straight up into P2 of Pear Buttress (possibly finding fixed rappel anchors atop the route Toot after about 30 feet); or, ten feet above the slot, one can traverse right down a sloping ramp to the second pitches of Loose Ends and Visual Aids.

Protection

If you don't have RPs or an equivalent, consider this X-rated. A light standard rack up to a #2 Friend should otherwise suffice.

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justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
I pity the 5.9 leader who wanders up this thing. The crux is hard and steep and offers only RPs. It is a great short pitch, but be ready for the techy stuff. Feb 25, 2002
What's wrong with RPs? They are fat! This climbs getting a bad RaP...only moderate 5.9 certainly not X! not even S...excellent moves. Sep 15, 2002
I followed Charles on this one day and thought it was pretty spicy. 9+ with a dab of habanero sauce. The RP(s) may be good, but if you're not a 5.10 leader and skilled w/ placing them, it could be dangerous. Sep 15, 2002
Thinstone follows the thin crack, but does it finish off with the crack in the diherdral or the slab crack? I did place some good pro in the dihedral crack, but didn't know the official route. I'm stupid like that. Anyone know? Feb 4, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
A great climb with better gear and moves than it appears. Witha 70M rope you can get to the pin and stopper belay on Pear Buttress and then rap or lower (with some caution), to a high point on the ground to climber's left. Jul 4, 2008
Dr. VARMENT
Boulder, Colorado
 
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
 
Not an X, a bomber #8 stopper protects the first crux, then a #0.3 BD or a Wild Country zero (blue) protects the next crux. The rest is 5.8, and a small light rack works fine. Rap/belay from a piton and fixed nut, the nut slides out but is BOMBER. If you do this route in a single pitch, bring a 70m or tie a knot and rappel/lower as far as you can, then swing/run/jump right to a big ledge and walk off. Sep 12, 2010