Mountain Project Logo

Routes in J-Crack Slab Area

Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Doug Snively (likely in the '70s or early '80s)
Page Views: 141 total, 1/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a one-pitch route that may be used to start Femp or J-Crack. This old-school climb is the business for 5.10-solid leaders at the grade should jump on it! Begin right of J-Crack (but before Femp) below a huge, round crystalline hole in the cliff, which harbors a large tree. Clamber up into the hole and pull crystals up into a left-facing corner. Ascend that (the crux) via sustained laybacking, lacking any noticable stances for placing gear. Belay on a ledge. It is possible to traverse right from here and downclimb the first pitch of Femp or rappel off of a dubious tree, but this is annoying and somewhat scary--best to continue up one of the fine routes above.

Protection

It requires mainly very small gear, and a #3.5 Friend fits the flare near the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10a
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10a
I guess by jug I meant the hold I could get all of my fat fingers in and lean back and shake out on right before the strenuous lieback begins. Yeah, you are probably right. I think you could place every piece somewhere.... And yes, I didn't place there I just kept going. So thats probably the best beta. Sep 1, 2009
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
Phil, it's a little hard to know exactly where each of us is talking about (I don't recall a "jug" near the top, but what's a jug can be a matter of opinion). We probably placed a #2 Camalot in the same place and then went to the top, which didn't seem particularly run out. I think a small (thin fingers or something) piece could have been placed above the #2 Camalot, but it was hard (for me) climbing there and going up seemed the best strategy. Maybe the take away is a that it would be nice to have a full range of cams (up to #3 Camalot) when you reach the crux so you can put in whatever size seems right. Aug 31, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10a
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10a
Really? I popped a number #0.75 and a #2 off the jug, then moved around the corner on what felt would fit a small TCU but just kept going. I didn't place anything, but maybe I just have fat fingers. Aug 30, 2009
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
With all due respect for the tips for thin gear, I put in a #2 and #3 Camalot near the top, through what seemed to be the crux. I put in some thin gear below but not in what I thought was "the business," i.e., right below the top. Aug 29, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10a
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10a
This is a fun little pumpfest. Highly recommended start to Femp. I found climbing on the crystals before the roof a total blast!

!Beta alert!:
Get to the good jugs about 15 feet above the roof, lean out and place a good piece, recover, and then launch. If you can, get a piece in after the lieback changes to vertical. Otherwise, just believe and grunt to the top. Tip: thin gear! Aug 22, 2009
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.10b
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.10b
The rap off the tree wasn't nearly as dubious as the lack of stances at the crux! Sweet climb. May 24, 2009
The Gillett guide amazingly calls this 10a. Pretty hard for the grade... it's a different type of climb but we thought it was harder than Thindependence (which is called 10c or d depending on where you look). It's definitely worth doing if you'd like something a little more challenging to start Femp or J-Crack. Jul 15, 2002
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
5.10b "+"? This must be one of those hard low-grade mid 5.10s. Nice call, Charles. Apr 4, 2002