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Routes in The Pages Wall Area

44, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Box, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheap Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
El Camino Real T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fat City Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Chapter, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frisky Puppies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
George is Phat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
George's Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Plains Drifter T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Howling at the Wind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hurley Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hurley Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Interceptor T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
M.I.C. Exit [aka Parable of the Cave] T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Midway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Music T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Osiris T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outlander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perelandra T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pseudo Wallet Eater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Exit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stepped On T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
That Hideous Strength T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Toot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wolfie and the Scientist T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 816 total, 6/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Oct 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

The Gillett guidebook describes this exit as a useful escape for climbers on J Crack, Femp, or Endless Crack, especially when the Cave exits are crowded. I first discovered it on a whim while trying to get off Pear Buttress before darkness set in (we got a late start).

From the spacious belay at the top of Pear Buttress's classic handcrack pitch, set your sights on that obvious chimney diagonally up and to the right. Cross a wide swath of low angle but runout terrain to vertical crack (groove?) that meets a small roof or flake (it's been a while) to the left of and at the same level with the start of the chimney. This is your first good piece of pro (a #1 Camalot, I think). Traverse straight right (10-15 feet) to the base of the chimney and head up it to the top. The runout slab is probably no harder than 5.6 friction and the chimney didn't feel harder than 5.6 (lots of good holds) as well, but the guidebook calls it 5.7.

Taking this exit from Pear Buttress allows you to climb the best parts of that route in 3 pitches if you're short on time.
Simply start on top of the leaning flake and go all the way to the belay ledge at the base of the classic crack. Climb the crack, and belay at the usual belay ledge. Then, with a 60m rope, do the diagonal traverse, and exit out the chimney all the way to the top.

Protection

Standard rack.

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