Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | FA-? |
Page Views: | 5,563 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
A harder, parallel (and IMHO even better) variation to Loose Ends, Visual Aids is the archetypal Lumpy finger crack.
P1. Begin with that route, or take Pear Buttress or Thindependence (highly recommended) to the same, sloping ledge.
P2. Climb the right of two parallel thin cracks, with the insecure crux off the ledge. Continue jamming to another belay shared with Loose Ends.
P3. Climb up toward the prominent, left-facing dihedral of Loose Ends, but then make an exciting 5.8 traverse around the corner to the right and find a hand crack, also 5.8. Follow this as it widens and gets lower angle, then belay.
P4. Climb up to the cave and chose an exit -- Cheap Date is another superb finger crack of the same grade, and recommended for a link-up with Thindependenc and Visual Aids.
P1. Begin with that route, or take Pear Buttress or Thindependence (highly recommended) to the same, sloping ledge.
P2. Climb the right of two parallel thin cracks, with the insecure crux off the ledge. Continue jamming to another belay shared with Loose Ends.
P3. Climb up toward the prominent, left-facing dihedral of Loose Ends, but then make an exciting 5.8 traverse around the corner to the right and find a hand crack, also 5.8. Follow this as it widens and gets lower angle, then belay.
P4. Climb up to the cave and chose an exit -- Cheap Date is another superb finger crack of the same grade, and recommended for a link-up with Thindependenc and Visual Aids.
Emphasis on the smaller gear. TCUs or Aliens make for happier quick placements, but small nut placements also work. Need standard rack to climb approach pitches and following pitches.
A great second pitch alternative to Loose Ends (or thindependence) journey. Takes the first crack, the thin one, just right of the 2nd Pitch of Loose Ends, see the picture under that route. Certainly a bit scarier lead, but very nice thin crack moves. Crux felt like it came and went within the first few placements, so hang in there. It gets easier as the angle kicks back. Another book classic. Jan 1, 2001
Estes Park
Fort Collins CO
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
P1) We did Loose Ends to the ledge starting the crux pitch.
P2) The crux pitch to the left-leaning undercling flake to the ledge. About 190'.
P3) Up easy slabs and onto Cheap Date, taking that to the shoulder 190'.
I guess in the end we only did the crux pitch and that dihedral of Visual Aids proper, but since this part of the wall is basically a choose-your-own crack adventure, the lengths should be the same regardless of which crack you take through each section. Enjoy! Apr 23, 2012