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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area

Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA-?
Page Views: 5,490 total, 27/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

A harder, parallel (and IMHO even better) variation to Loose Ends, Visual Aids is the archetypal Lumpy finger crack.

P1. Begin with that route, or take Pear Buttress or Thindependence (highly recommended) to the same, sloping ledge.

P2. Climb the right of two parallel thin cracks, with the insecure crux off the ledge. Continue jamming to another belay shared with Loose Ends.

P3. Climb up toward the prominent, left-facing dihedral of Loose Ends, but then make an exciting 5.8 traverse around the corner to the right and find a hand crack, also 5.8. Follow this as it widens and gets lower angle, then belay.

P4. Climb up to the cave and chose an exit -- Cheap Date is another superb finger crack of the same grade, and recommended for a link-up with Thindependenc and Visual Aids.

Protection

Emphasis on smaller gear. RPs, recommended by several guidebooks, are definitely not necessary - the route is more than sewn up without them. Bring a standard rack otherwise; the second pitch (rated 5.8) has a moderate, 5.6ish wide crack.
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Such a great route! That crux pitch is excellent. The whole thing goes in 3 pitches with a 60m.

P1) We did Loose Ends to the ledge starting the crux pitch.
P2) The crux pitch to the left-leaning undercling flake to the ledge. About 190'.
P3) Up easy slabs and onto Cheap Date, taking that to the shoulder 190'.

I guess in the end we only did the crux pitch and that dihedral of Visual Aids proper, but since this part of the wall is basically a choose-your-own crack adventure, the lengths should be the same regardless of which crack you take through each section. Enjoy! Apr 23, 2012
Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
  5.10b
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
  5.10b
RPs are absolutely not necessary on this. Jun 25, 2011
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
P2 and 3 also link with a 60m. Jun 1, 2010
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10b
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10b
With a 70m rope, it is possible to link P2 and P3 together and belay on the nice ledge before the ramp to the cave. Apr 20, 2008
This pitch is about at the limit of my leading ability, yet I felt quite comfortable w/o RPs. Small aliens and small-to-medium nuts (NOT teeny-weeny) sufficed to sew up the lower half of the pitch. I actually got on this thinking I was doing Loose Ends' second pitch (forgot the guidebook at the car) and am glad I did. However, do not miss the arching 5.9 dihedral that is Loose Ends' 3rd pitch, directly above the Visual Aids crux pitch. That pitch is AWESOME. Sep 8, 2003
I find it interesting to note that when I see RPs on a gear list for any given route what I think of is my smallest stoppers, brassies, and wired thinga-majiggers, not actual RPs (which is a brand name). I've never even held an RP in my hand and don't have any on my rack, but I often refer to things as RP-cracks, or tell people they will need to bring RPs for routes that I have climbed before with my own rack (no RPs). I led the 10b section of this route today and told some stranger whom I was sharing a belay with that I had placed a lot of RPs...so anyway, if you suffer from the same RP-confusion-syndrom as I do, take some RPs to protect this route, you'll be glad you did. Aug 14, 2002
Crusty  
Justin, would you say that pitch 2 is "all state"? May 4, 2002
Crusty  
Climbed this on 4/29 also. with 60m rope we linked the first pitch of Pear Buttress together with the first pitch of Visual Aids and ended up 20 feet short of the belay. You can make an uncomfortable belay when the rope ends or simulclimb with leader and second on 5.7. Note that when linking with Thindependence on a 60m rope the belay is reached without simulclimbing. Lots of scud (bomber) stoppers on Visual Aids' first pitch, poor finger jams but decent feet. Justin, as we discussed please don't use the word "splitter", "perfectly cleaved" will suffice. May 4, 2002
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
I just did one of my favorite link-ups again this morning.the first two pitches of Loose Ends, into the 5.8 pitch on Visual Aids.I love the step right into that wonderful, long section of perfect hands.It's fun to mix and match splitter cracks up there!!!! Apr 29, 2002
Ed. Note: Jesse submitted this route also but there was a management issue (our fault), so here's some more beta.

Emphasis on the smaller gear. TCUs or Aliens make for happier quick placements, but small nut placements also work. Need standard rack to climb approach pitches and following pitches.

A great second pitch alternative to Loose Ends (or thindependence) journey. Takes the first crack, the thin one, just right of the 2nd Pitch of Loose Ends, see the picture under that route. Certainly a bit scarier lead, but very nice thin crack moves. Crux felt like it came and went within the first few placements, so hang in there. It gets easier as the angle kicks back. Another book classic. Jan 1, 2001