Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA-?
Page Views: 7,971 total · 28/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A harder, parallel (and IMHO even better) variation to Loose Ends, Visual Aids is the archetypal Lumpy finger crack.

P1. Begin with that route, or take Pear Buttress or Thindependence (highly recommended) to the same, sloping ledge.

P2. Climb the right of two parallel thin cracks, with the insecure crux off the ledge. Continue jamming to another belay shared with Loose Ends.

P3. Climb up toward the prominent, left-facing dihedral of Loose Ends, but then make an exciting 5.8 traverse around the corner to the right and find a hand crack, also 5.8. Follow this as it widens and gets lower angle, then belay.

P4. Climb up to the cave and chose an exit -- Cheap Date is another superb finger crack of the same grade, and recommended for a link-up with Thindependenc and Visual Aids.

Protection Suggest change

Emphasis on smaller gear. RPs, recommended by several guidebooks, are definitely not necessary - the route is more than sewn up without them. Bring a standard rack otherwise; the second pitch (rated 5.8) has a moderate, 5.6ish wide crack.

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