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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area

Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: [Nate A, Joey V. 6-1-05]
Page Views: 94 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate A on May 31, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Locate this route by scrambling up the Fender gully, easy 5th class, to a large ledge just down and to climber's right of Femp's belay ledge. Look for 3 bolts that lead to a flared crack begining a little past halfway up the pitch. Run it out to the first bolt, approximately 15 feet of 5.9, which then protects a difficult section leading to bolt #2 and then head slightly left to a horn which takes a sling and a medium stopper. Mantle up on the horn, move right to clip bolt #3, then pull the crux move of the route to get situated in the crack and begin searching for a couple of difficult to place RPs. A couple more difficult moves in the crack get you to better gear and onto a nice belay ledge right underneath the nice 5.8 handcrack on Endless Crack's third pitch.

Choose one of several different existing exits or rap back to the start of the route from a tree with slings just up and left of the ledge.

Note: the "s" rating refers to the runout getting to the first bolt, as a fall would land you right on the belay ledge. The bolt was intentionally placed in this location because there is a natural clipping stance, we wanted to keep the bolt count low and we thought anyone unable to commit to this part of the route would have a really hard time further up the climb.

Protection

Bring a set of TCUs or equivalent, set of stoppers and RPs, quickdraws, several runners, and a couple of larger cams for the belay (#2, #3 Camalot).

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comic clown
  5.11b
comic clown  
  5.11b
.... Jun 13, 2005
justin dubois
Estes Park
 
justin dubois   Estes Park
 
Even though this route was named after a Bob [Segar] song, I'd still recommend it. Nice work, boys! Jun 12, 2005