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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area

Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, TR
FA: [Randy Farris, FFA]
Page Views: 2,334 total · 11/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a great lieback, hand, finger, crack on a boulder southeast of the descent from the Book. After descending the third class rock sections of the Book, walk 50 yards south east to find a 40 foot boulder with a right slanting bolted flaring crack on its west side.

This route can be toproped clipping the bolts for directionals. The crux occurs right off the ground with hard 5.12 liebacking to gain the flared crack. The crack itself is also solid 5.12 with sequential thin hand jams and a pumpy 5.11 finish. A great route. Tape up!

Protection

Ironically this is a bolted crack; at Lumpy Ridge no less. Some day this may be led on natural pro, it is certainly possible for all except the first twenty feet.

Photos

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Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
...I'm not sure who bolted it, but that's total....at an area like Lumpy--all except the first 10-15 feet would take great natural gear. There goes another great potential gear test-piece... Aug 11, 2001
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.12c/d
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.12c/d
...I for one agree with Charles, this route needs only one bolt.

-patrick Jul 2, 2002
I have to agree that this route should not have been bolted. Some hard trad lines just need to be left for future hard climbers to send...not bolted just because its convenient... Mar 12, 2003
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
I'm all in favor of removing all but the first bolt as there are great crack placements for the rest of this very short but quality pitch. I wouldn't do it without a HUGE community consensus, but this one seems like a relatively easy decision. Mar 26, 2006
Nate C  
While I might be in the minority, I think it is good that routes like this are bolted. Yes, it could be lead on gear, but climbs like this allow people (some of whom crush) to see what hard trad climbing has to offer. By no means am I saying people should go out and bolt every hard or scary trad line, I just think having some is nice. Apr 4, 2017

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