Femp

Femp is a good crack climb up the right side of the J-crack slab, though the cruxes involve delicate face climbing. It is easily identified as the next continuous crack line right (a considerable distance) of J-crack, and starts from the same ledge, about 100 feet off the ground.

After reaching the Book, hike right, passing the opposing flakes of Pear Buttress and Loose Ends, the start to J-crack, and stop just past The Cavity, a huge crystalline hole with a large tree, and a clean, thin, left-facing corner rising out of it. Per Monty Worth: about 30' further right find a small ledge 20' up, just before the path starts to climb again. Femp starts at the parallel vertical cracks just left of a corner.

P1. Climb the 5.2 corner right of this, and go left to reach the base of the crack, or climb The Cavity corner (5.10, recommended). Belay directly below the crack. Alternatively per Monty Worth:climb at the parallel cracks, 5.7 for 100'. 

P2. Climb the full rope-length crack pitch for 180', with the first crux at a suspect pin where the crack briefly dies, and you have to reach up and left to a new one and the second at a very thin corner at the top. People with smaller hands and feet may also feel challenged by the wider section at the top. Belay above the thin corner in a jumble of flakes.

P3. There are many options: a) traverse left on an easy ramp (J-crack), and continue up to the Cave area; b) climb a crack to an apexed roof (5.7), and continue up a slab to a flaky, right-leaning 5.7 chimney through the roof band, which leads to the descent (long pitch); c) climb the overhanging, left-facing corner above the belay ("Hemp", rated 5.10), and continue with "b" or "d"; d) traverse right to a thin 5.9+ crack which leads to a belay beneath a long, reddish roof band. Turn the roof at a wedged flake (also 5.9+) and merge with the top part of "b".

Alternatively per Monty Worth: if you look for the easiest way up and traverse far left along the easy ramp, you'll end up in the cave area, have to do an extra pitch, and miss the delight of the standard route. This is the money pitch, a delightful way to end, especially after wearing out your paws on P2. Climb directly above you, up the left-arching, left-facing undercling. It is easier than it looks, with good pro, though at spots you have to crane your neck to place it.

Variation 1: traverse right from the belay to a thin 5.9+ crack which leads to a belay beneath a long, reddish roof band.

Variation 2: if you want more of a challenge, you could try Hemp, the thin crack in the middle of that left-facing corner for 30'.

After turning the corner, you can either continue up the layback corner (harder pro) or step left 6' on a good ledge to a wider crack. They rejoin after 30', then go straight up featured face to a roof. Traverse right under the roof, (#1 Camalot), then scramble up the cornucopia of flakes and end with a delightful, easy short chimney to the top. Set up a belay on the left for the walk off and enjoy the stunning view. NOTE: it's a 60m rope stretcher, so you might have to ask your partner at the belay to move up a bit.

Bring extra Friends from #3-3.5. Also, be sure to have some very small gear left at the top of the crux lead.

Per T G: the GPS coordinates to Femp: 40.40557, -105.53394.