Avg: 3 from 92 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ren Fenton, Charles Kemp, 1962|
|Page Views:||1,748 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Aug 1, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
After reaching the Book, hike right, passing the opposing flakes of Pear Buttress and Loose Ends, the start to J-crack, and stop just past the Cavity, a huge crystalline hole with a large tree, and a clean, thin LF corner rising out of it.
P1- Climb the 5.2 corner right of this and go left to reach the base of the crack, or climb the Cavity corner (5.10, recommended). Belay directly below the crack.
P2- Climb the full rope-length crack pitch, with the first crux at a suspect pin where the crack briefly dies, and the second at a very thin corner at the top. Belay above the thin corner.
P3-many options-- a)traverse left on an easy ramp (J-crack) and continue up to the Cave area. b) climb a crack to an apexed roof (5.7), and continue up a slab to a flaky, right-leaning 5.7 chimney through the roof band, which leads to the descent (long pitch). c) climb the overhanging, LF corner above the belay ("Hemp", rated 5.10), and continue with "b" or "d". d) traverse right to a thin 5.9+ crack which leads to a belay beneath a long, reddish roof band. Turn the roof at a wedged flake (also 5.9+) and merge with the top part of "b".