Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ren Fenton, Charles Kemp, 1962
Page Views: 1,748 total · 8/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Aug 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine nesting closure - through 7/31/20 Details
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Femp is a good crack climb up the right side of the J-crack slab, though the cruxes involve delicate face climbing. It is easily identified as the next continuous crack line right (a considerable distance) of J-crack, and starts from the same ledge, about 100 feet off the ground.

After reaching the Book, hike right, passing the opposing flakes of Pear Buttress and Loose Ends, the start to J-crack, and stop just past the Cavity, a huge crystalline hole with a large tree, and a clean, thin LF corner rising out of it.

P1- Climb the 5.2 corner right of this and go left to reach the base of the crack, or climb the Cavity corner (5.10, recommended). Belay directly below the crack.

P2- Climb the full rope-length crack pitch, with the first crux at a suspect pin where the crack briefly dies, and the second at a very thin corner at the top. Belay above the thin corner.

P3-many options-- a)traverse left on an easy ramp (J-crack) and continue up to the Cave area. b) climb a crack to an apexed roof (5.7), and continue up a slab to a flaky, right-leaning 5.7 chimney through the roof band, which leads to the descent (long pitch). c) climb the overhanging, LF corner above the belay ("Hemp", rated 5.10), and continue with "b" or "d". d) traverse right to a thin 5.9+ crack which leads to a belay beneath a long, reddish roof band. Turn the roof at a wedged flake (also 5.9+) and merge with the top part of "b".

Protection

Bring extra Friends from #3-3.5. Also, be sure to have some very small gear left at the top of the crux lead.

Photos