Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Hurley and Rearick, 1975
Page Views: 4,025 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Aug 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Peregrine nesting closure - extended through 8/15/20 Details
Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is on the right side of the book and is marked by the crack that begins about 15 up and then fades out again about 70 feet up the cliff. There is a line of old bolts just to the right of the crack (Pizza Face).

Begin to the right of the crack. Scramble up and clip the first bolt (new) on Pizza Face, then make the crux move left to get established in the crack. Work your way up the crystalline crack until it starts to fade. I got a couple TCUs in here, then headed up and right across the face towards the last bolt on Pizza Face. This bolt is an antique, and should probably be replaced. Head due right to the crack/corner, and follow that (5.7) to the sling anchor. It is a 100 foot rappel from here to the ground. The route does continue, but by this point you've climbed the 'Endless' crack. ~150'

Per Errett Allen: Rather than stop at the slings mentioned as the top of pitch one, you can continue climbing 50 feet higher in the dihedral which allows you to belay on a big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block.

P2. From the sandy ledge, climb up and left across slab and disconnected cracks to an obvious straight-in fist crack. Ascend this crack, then climb left and up across a few disjointed cracks. Make a few easy face moves left into a left-facing dihedral and follow it to the belay ledge at the top of the crux pitch of Femp -- 5.7. This pitch is wandering and mostly uninteresting but the fist crack is sweet. ~150'

P3. Make face moves out right toward a tiny pine tree on the lower left side of Kite Slab and enter a beautiful clean thin crack just above the pine (RP & small stoppers). Ascend this crack to a stance -- 5.9. From here there are two options. ~75'

P3a. Continue climbing up and right to a break in the roof above, which can be pulled through on a wedged block -- 9+ and belay above the roof. ~130'

P3b. Follow the crack system up and left, do some face moves to the roof when the crack peters out, move left and climb through the break in the roof band into a right-slanting flake and chimney system (this is the finish to Femp). Belay on a large ledge about 30-40 feet up the flake/chimney system -- 5.7.

P4. Do short and easy summit pitch ending near the Cave Exits. ~75'

Protection

Standard Lumpy rack. Eds. extra small gear, RPs, TCUs or Aliens may be useful for P3.

Photos