Avg: 2.5 from 28 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Hurley and Rearick, 1975|
|Page Views:||4,264 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Sofranko on Aug 10, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)-nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Begin to the right of the crack. Scramble up and clip the first bolt (new) on Pizza Face, then make the crux move left to get established in the crack. Work your way up the crystalline crack until it starts to fade. I got a couple TCUs in here, then headed up and right across the face towards the last bolt on Pizza Face. This bolt is an antique, and should probably be replaced. Head due right to the crack/corner, and follow that (5.7) to the sling anchor. It is a 100 foot rappel from here to the ground. The route does continue, but by this point you've climbed the 'Endless' crack. ~150'
Per Errett Allen: Rather than stop at the slings mentioned as the top of pitch one, you can continue climbing 50 feet higher in the dihedral which allows you to belay on a big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block.
P2. From the sandy ledge, climb up and left across slab and disconnected cracks to an obvious straight-in fist crack. Ascend this crack, then climb left and up across a few disjointed cracks. Make a few easy face moves left into a left-facing dihedral and follow it to the belay ledge at the top of the crux pitch of Femp -- 5.7. This pitch is wandering and mostly uninteresting but the fist crack is sweet. ~150'
P3. Make face moves out right toward a tiny pine tree on the lower left side of Kite Slab and enter a beautiful clean thin crack just above the pine (RP & small stoppers). Ascend this crack to a stance -- 5.9. From here there are two options. ~75'
P3a. Continue climbing up and right to a break in the roof above, which can be pulled through on a wedged block -- 9+ and belay above the roof. ~130'
P3b. Follow the crack system up and left, do some face moves to the roof when the crack peters out, move left and climb through the break in the roof band into a right-slanting flake and chimney system (this is the finish to Femp). Belay on a large ledge about 30-40 feet up the flake/chimney system -- 5.7.
P4. Do short and easy summit pitch ending near the Cave Exits. ~75'