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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area

Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Hurley and Rearick, 1975
Page Views: 3,399 total, 17/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Aug 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route is on the right side of the book and is marked by the crack that begins about 15 up and then fades out again about 70 feet up the cliff. There is a line of old bolts just to the right of the crack (Pizza Face).

Begin to the right of the crack. Scramble up and clip the first bolt (new) on Pizza Face, then make the crux move left to get established in the crack. Work your way up the crystalline crack until it starts to fade. I got a couple TCUs in here, then headed up and right across the face towards the last bolt on Pizza Face. This bolt is an antique, and should probably be replaced. Head due right to the crack/corner, and follow that (5.7) to the sling anchor. It is a 100 foot rappel from here to the ground. The route does continue, but by this point you've climbed the 'Endless' crack. ~150'

Per Errett Allen: Rather than stop at the slings mentioned as the top of pitch one, you can continue climbing 50 feet higher in the dihedral which allows you to belay on a big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block.

P2. From the sandy ledge, climb up and left across slab and disconnected cracks to an obvious straight-in fist crack. Ascend this crack, then climb left and up across a few disjointed cracks. Make a few easy face moves left into a left-facing dihedral and follow it to the belay ledge at the top of the crux pitch of Femp -- 5.7. This pitch is wandering and mostly uninteresting but the fist crack is sweet. ~150'

P3. Make face moves out right toward a tiny pine tree on the lower left side of Kite Slab and enter a beautiful clean thin crack just above the pine (RP & small stoppers). Ascend this crack to a stance -- 5.9. From here there are two options. ~75'

P3a. Continue climbing up and right to a break in the roof above, which can be pulled through on a wedged block -- 9+ and belay above the roof. ~130'

P3b. Follow the crack system up and left, do some face moves to the roof when the crack peters out, move left and climb through the break in the roof band into a right-slanting flake and chimney system (this is the finish to Femp). Belay on a large ledge about 30-40 feet up the flake/chimney system -- 5.7.

P4. Do short and easy summit pitch ending near the Cave Exits. ~75'

Protection

Standard Lumpy rack. Eds. extra small gear, RPs, TCUs or Aliens may be useful for P3.

Photos

Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
I would not trust my life to the wedged flake on the 9+ roof finish. It has an obvious crack all the way around it, and it appears you have no option but to yard on it to pull the roof (and probably put gear behind it). Not to mention it looks like choss. I'm glad that others have been able to climb it, but please be careful up there and remember Lumpy is a prime venue for frost wedging. Nov 12, 2013
I have done this route a couple times and never have pulled off the 9+ roof option near the top. I think the climb is better than the 2 1/2 star rating. I've always belayed behind a block after the first pitch and done the route in 3 long pitches. To those of you who can do the 9+ roof up high, is it really a 9 and not 10b or c? I can usually do a 9 (esp. after 2 tries). If there was a trick to make it easier, I failed to find it! Sep 5, 2012
I thought that the variation that Tim mentions was harder than 5.7. I also thought it was deserving of a very serious rating. You're looking at a 50 footer down the slab if you blow it just before the overlap. I can't remember if you would hit the ground if you blew it there but it would be ugly in any case.

From the crack, I headed up and slightly left to a stance on the arete hoping to find some gear. There was none so I had to continue to the overlap.

If memory serves, this is called the FINE variation in the Rossiter book and is given a 5.9 rating. Sep 4, 2009
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
On P1: Instead of heading over to the bolt after the crack ends, quest upwards on the face straight up. This leads to another overlap where you can get some gear. Keep going up, traverse left to a water groove where you can get a good #0.3 Camalot, and then reverse the traverse back right onto the face, and belay on the "big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block" above the mentioned slings at the end of Mission Impossible. A quick down lead will get you to the rap station.

This is an excellent face journey, though serious/very serious in the 5.7 range. Sep 4, 2009
John Keller
  5.9
John Keller  
  5.9
I just did this route yesterday and it was quite good. I agree that the full route description should be included. The crack and thin face work on the third pitch along the edge of kite slab should not be missed. The description in the above comment is really good as it describes making your choice of roof exit early after the main crack in the third pitch. I didn't do this and found myself under what turned out to be the 9+ roof exit. However, it's damn hard to switch to another exit once your under the roof. The 9+ looks increadibly intimidating and I wasn't sure that it wasn't the 11a. Anyway, it's a fantastic finish to a very good route. Jul 12, 2004
paco  
The exit (traverse) bolt at the top of the first pitch has been replaced with a neat, new one. Mar 25, 2003
The rest of this route is worthwhile and should be included in the description. Rather than stop at the slings mentioned as the top of pitch one, you can continue climbing 50 feet higher in the dihedral which allows you to belay on a big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block. 2. From the sandy ledge, climb up and left across slab and disconnected cracks to an obvious straight-in fist crack. Ascend this crack, then climb left and up across a few disjointed cracks. Make a few easy face moves left into a left facing dihedral and follow it to the belay ledge at the top of the crux pitch of Femp -- 5.7. This pitch is wandering and mostly uninteresting but the fist crack is sweet. 3. Make face moves out right toward a tiny pine tree on the lower left side of Kite Slab and enter a beautiful clean thin crack just above the pine (RP & small stoppers). Ascend this crack to a stance -- 5.9. From here there are two options. 3a. Continue climbing up and right to a break in the roof above, which can be pulled through on a wedged block -- 9+ and belay above the roof. 3b. Follow the crack system up and left, do some face moves to the roof when the crack peters out, move left and climb through the break in the roof band into a right slanting flake and chimney system (this is the finish to Femp). Belay on a large ledge about 30-40 feet up the flake/chimney system -- 5.7. 4. Do short and easy summit pitch ending near the Cave Exits. Aug 12, 2002
PizzaFace was still baking in the oven when Hurley/Rearick climbed Endless Crack and placed the 1st bolt (later replaced),S.Kimball. Jun 28, 2002