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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area

Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: George Hurley, Dave Rearick, 1975
Page Views: 361 total · 2/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Jul 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details


Mission Impossible is a fun, thin corner on the extreme right of the Book. Hike up to the Book and continue rightwards past J-Crack and Femp. A long gully lies just right of Femp; to its right is a smooth slab with a clean crack (that doesn't reach the ground) on its left (Endless Crack), and a line of (currently) 1/4" bolts just right of that. Mission Impossible takes the corner system that borders the slab on the right. Start up into the LF corner, with a perfect 5.9 finger crack. The corner becomes very steep and thin; instead, take the flake to the left (crux, tricky gear) through blackwashed rock. Continue up a wider but easier crack to a rappel anchor. From here, a 60m rope will get you to some ledges just above the ground. Otherwise, continue up the moderate corner line until it is possible to walk off right and merge with the bottom part of the Book's 4th-class descent route.


Bring a double set of small stuff (include a few RPs), and a couple larger Friends for the top.


Some fairly delicate foot work for a 10a. not pumpy, but delicate. Jun 27, 2003
David Conlin
David Conlin  
No more "delicate" than a 10a should be. Good route when the weather is iffy and you only want one pitch. There are two cruxes, 9+ down low laying back around the first bulge and 10a up higher as you leave the dihedral for the "flake," if you can call it that. A long step out left for a crystal eases the move considerably. Oct 9, 2003
Kre   Colorado
I found this to be a very satisfying route. Committing, yet do-able with good edges for your feet. I was able to protect the crux with a blue alien and small stoppers. I had RP's with me, but didn't use a single one! Sep 21, 2004
Joe Santambrogio
Joe Santambrogio  
Great day of climbing on this while Femp, Pear Buttress etc. was all cued up...we linked five or so pitches for a full day, Mission Impossible to Endless Crack to the cave, to of my favorite days climbing...full value run back to the gate at Mac Gregor in the pouring rain too. Jul 31, 2005
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
This was my first 10a, and I thought it was a good one. While you can't place gear above you for the first 10a section, you have a bomber #1 BD at your feet. I placed a purple TCU in the flake which was alright, and then made a move higher to find good gear. Fun climb with thoughtful moves. Aug 24, 2006
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
One of my favorite Lumpy 10a pitches. Good pro, thought-provoking moves, long 30m pitch, and with the added bolt to the threaded-sling anchor, easy to top-rope three other stellar routes/variations to the right of 11a, 11b, and 12a which is nice when the summer storms are looming overhead and you don't want to risk getting zapped 200' or higher off the ground. Jun 5, 2008
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
From below, the gear at the crux flake looks like it's not there, but in fact small cams alleviate any doubts and make the crux moves relatively casual. The moves are certainly more delicate than some of the neighboring crack routes but not overly strenuous. The 2nd "pitch" can be made a bit more interesting by avoiding the gully and moving out right to the rounded corner. This is 5.6X in my opinion but worth it for the exposure. Jun 18, 2012

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